Check EV System warning message

[co2112]

Another check ev system warning. 12v is at 12.4 to 12.5 after multiple attempts to start. 12v disconnect didnt work. Multiple starts didnt work. 12v jump didnt work either. Worth buying a new battery or should it just be towed?

 

[smkettner]

12.4 should start the car. Disconnect overnight and put on a charger. Try in the AM or have it towed.

 

[TonyWilliams]

You need a new battery, regardless. Go get one, or better yet, have Fedex deliver one straight to your door.

Rav4 EV 12 volt Battery recommendations:

https://m.pepboys.com/search/?term=bosch+24f+60ah+agm

I recommend the Bosch or Exide battery with the following specs for around $150-$180:

1) AGM (not flooded acid cells like the original)

2) Group 24F size

3) 60 amp/hour rating

 

[co2112]

Okay. Bought new battery got the recommended Bosch Platinum tested 12.6 off the shelf. When I tested old battery on car sitting for a couple days 11.9. Tried a couple restarts back to 12.4. Put new battery same check EV system and unable to get into D or R.

My driveway is gravel and a slight decline so before the flatbed showed up I tried pushing the RAV into a better loading position. Moved it 8 or 9 inches, that thing is a massive paperweight trying to move it up hill and the steering while dead is tough.

Towed it to Folsom Lake Toyota and they gave me a hard time saying I shouldn't have replaced the battery and said that it could cause a bunch of problems.

 

[miimura]

Okay. Bought new battery got the recommended Bosch Platinum tested 12.6 off the shelf. When I tested old battery on car sitting for a couple days 11.9. Tried a couple restarts back to 12.4. Put new battery same check EV system and unable to get into D or R.

I also tried reseating the HV plug under the passenger seat to see if it would reset and go to drive or reverse, nothing. My driveway is gravel and a slight decline so before the flatbed showed up I tried pushing the RAV into a better loading position. Moved it 8 or 9 inches, that thing is a massive paperweight trying to move it up hill and the steering while dead is tough.

Towed it to Folsom Lake Toyota and they gave me a hard time saying I shouldn't have replaced the battery and said that it could cause a bunch of problems. I let them know I replaced it because of the low voltage readings and after the check ev system came on twice the second time disabling the car. I should know more today but I got a lecture on why the factory proprietary size battery is superior. When I asked the tech about crank amps and the ability to jump other cars with the factory battery he didn't know what to say. I said I own more than one car and if I need to jump those other vehicles I need a battery that can do that. Also the size 24 battery is the proper size for the tray. He also said it wouldn't shut off when he tried it. I said it was because he had his foot on the brake.

In your situation, I would have bought and tried the new battery. Then, when it didn't work, I would have put back the original battery after charging it outside the car. The dealer's reaction to the aftermarket battery is totally expected while the car is showing a Check EV System error. My advice, since your car is already there with the AGM battery, let them put in a new battery and finish their troubleshooting. After the repair is complete, have them put your AGM battery back in and if the car is still OK, you don't have to keep or pay for their battery. Get them to agree to that in advance, preferably in writing.

 

[co2112]

So a couple hours the car was completely gone through with the Tesla rep step by step they said battery health is good and thought it was a rodent problem, loose plug near the HV cable. Toyota couldn't confirm sloshing sound but it may be excess water from my early morning run in with a fallen branch in the road back in early January. I continued driving and found the front cover hanging down and missing clips that held it in place.


............OK wrote too soon. Car left me stranded at lunch time. 8 miles from dealer but after 80+ miles since picking it up. To be continued. Error code listed is P312F. Anyone know what this is for?

Additional Codes BMS_F007, BMS_F071, and DI_W124

Toyota cleared codes i drove home Friday night plugged in. Didnt touch car until this morning. Wont start again. Back to folsom lake toyota a third time in 6 days. Hopefully they can go through codes and figure it out.

 

[co2112]

New battery ordered. Bad cell pack, full battery replacement. No other issues were found. All accessories were working. One error for cruise control module on last day bringing in but the car never went into drive or reverse. Tow driver probably hit the stick when getting it on or off the truck.

 

[tridub]

My 2014 started having all kinds of crazy transient electrical symptoms, including Check EV, and other warning lights. So I popped a new Bosch 12v AGM battery in it like Tony said, and it's been right as rain ever since! Thanks, Tony!

P.S. I checked the voltage on my old battery just before the swap, and it was only 10v! R.I.P. Old Sparky...

 

[TonyWilliams]

My 2014 started having all kinds of crazy transient electrical symptoms, including Check EV, and other warning lights. So I popped a new Bosch 12v AGM battery in it like Tony said, and it's been right as rain ever since! Thanks, Tony!

P.S. I checked the voltage on my old battery just before the swap, and it was only 10v! R.I.P. Old Sparky...

You won't gobble up that 60ah Bosch battery so fast!!!

 

[Syrinx]

The wife was driving the RAV home from work today. On the freeway, she says she heard a clunk, and the car lost all power (Turtle came on), like she started braking. She got it over to the side and came to a stop. She turned it off and on again, and it went Ready and started. She got the Check EV message, but was able to continue on her way, making it home. We had somewhere to go right after that, so we tried to start it again, but it would not go Ready this time, flashing Ready but never locking in. The Check EV message remained. I reset the 12v, and it still won't start. I am going to have it towed to the dealer, as this sounds like something else. I'm at about 78,000 miles, with the Platinum extended warranty. My main concern is how the vehicle diagnosis will be treated since I have JdeMO installed. My dealer is Tustin Toyota, though I live much closer to Santa Margarita Toyota. Anyone with experience on this?

 

[miimura]

Contact Tony for instructions on how to disconnect the JdeMO from the CANbus. The connectors are a little hard to reach and have a special locking mechanism that you have to handle carefully so you don't break the tab. My onboard charger was changed by the dealer before I bought the car new and the connector was already damaged when he installed the JdeMO.

 

[TonyWilliams]

The wife was driving the RAV home from work today. On the freeway, she says she heard a clunk, and the car lost all power (Turtle came on), like she started braking. She got it over to the side and came to a stop...

This sounds like a classic speed sensor issue (particularly the part where she was able to restart the car). This happened to me in almost exactly the same way, and I had my vehicle (#2496) towed to a local EV certified Toyota dealer for repair (one that I no longer recommend). In those days, they had to swap the entire motor assembly to fix the speed sensor.

Now, they can pop in a new speed sensor, plus the latest firmware 1.3.101 should disregard slightly out of tolerance errors from the speed sensor (but, it obviously can't fix a failed speed sensor).

I recommend disconnecting the JdeMO before taking it in for diagnosis. It's not fun to do the first time, but it takes no tools and shouldn't take more than a minute or two.

I also recommend NOT disconnecting the 12 volt battery, since it may lose DTC codes used for troubleshooting (normally, I recommend this since the very act of disconnecting JdeMO may trigger a CHECK EV message, as you are breaking both of the high voltage interlock loops). We want to preserve the data since you don't need to attempt to restart the car again prior to repair.

You're going to remove the JdeMO low voltage harness plugs 4 and 5 from the vehicle and reinstall the original Toyota harness plug back into the Tesla onboard charger. Please place the plugs in plastic bags that are zip-tied or taped on to the now exposed plugs 4 and 5 to prevent dirt and moisture from entering those plugs.

Refer to pages 20-23 to help you identify the correct plugs.

JdeMO Installation Manual RAV4 EV":

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bgzq16qi65lorq7/JdeMOinstallationManualRav4EVpaperA4.pdf?dl=0

There is absolutely nothing that just happened to your vehicle that requires the dealer to remove any JdeMO hardware. The unit will now be electrically disconnected from the RAV4, so that prevents the usual, "Yeppers, that funny new fangled gizmo MUST be the problem, because these cars never fail" or the even more common, "We are going to need to git some cash out of ya to work around that complicated gizmo ya got there".

You can have the EV tech at the dealer call me with any questions they may have. Our phone number is on the JdeMO unit.

Please suggest to them that you suspect a speed sensor failure. Toyota may actually have this part in stock now, but if not, Tesla should have them in Fremont / SF Bay Area.

 

[Syrinx]

Thanks for the info and advice. I'll pull the connections this weekend and take it in Monday.

 

[Syrinx]

Holy cow! Trying the disconnect those plugs is way more difficult then the instructions make it out. I have pulled back the locks on both, but can't for the life of me get enough grip strength on them to pull them loose. Is there a trick I am missing? They are just not budging.

 

[Syrinx]

Holy cow! Trying the disconnect those plugs is way more difficult then the instructions make it out. I have pulled back the locks on both, but can't for the life of me get enough grip strength on them to pull them loose. Is there a trick I am missing? They are just not budging.

I got the harness loose from the jdemo to the OEM connector, but I still cannot break loose the jdemo harness from the onboard charger. Not sure what I am doing wrong, beyond not pulling hard enough.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Holy cow! Trying the disconnect those plugs is way more difficult then the instructions make it out. I have pulled back the locks on both, but can't for the life of me get enough grip strength on them to pull them loose. Is there a trick I am missing? They are just not budging.

No trick. They can be a real pain in the posterior. You might try push in while pressing the tab with your thumb. You should feel it unlock, then pull.

 

[fromport]

Has anyone had that while driving 80+ miles range left, suddenly turtle come on, display goes to 3 miles left, check EV signal comes on. Car kept driving, stopped at gas station. after 4 x power on/off cycle , check EV signal was gone and range was back to 74 miles.
It's almost looked like something did a reboot of the software, while driving.
Will go to dealer to have them read the codes.
Has this happened to others before ?

 

[Syrinx]

Holy cow! Trying the disconnect those plugs is way more difficult then the instructions make it out. I have pulled back the locks on both, but can't for the life of me get enough grip strength on them to pull them loose. Is there a trick I am missing? They are just not budging.

No trick. They can be a real pain in the posterior. You might try push in while pressing the tab with your thumb. You should feel it unlock, then pull.

I'm getting a little discouraged with this plug. I cannot for the life of me get it to pop loose from the charger. I have the lock clip pulled back, and have wiggled and pulled it every which way, but it will not budge. I can't wait forever to get this done, as I need to get the car into the dealer. Any last tips?

 

[TonyWilliams]

It's two operations:

Red or white locking clip to the rear of the plug.

Squeeze connector black tab while pulling (which may be slightly easier by pushing first).

See page 5 of 5:

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-19417-001.pdf

 

[Syrinx]

It's two operations:

Red or white locking clip to the rear of the plug.

Squeeze connector black tab while pulling (which may be slightly easier by pushing first).

See page 5 of 5:

http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-19417-001.pdf

And that is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!

Interesting thing happened after I did that. I tried starting the vehicle again, and the Ready locked in this time. I did it multiple times, and the Check EV message cleared. I've driven the car for a bit with no issue, but I am still going to take it in to get serviced. I'd love your thoughts on why this is working again. I don't know enough about the Speed Sensor and how it fails to know if this is just a fluke that will recur at any time, or if there is something else in the mix. Thanks again for help with getting the JDeMO bypassed.