Broken down again (traction battery fuse replaced)

[Bassman]

On my 3rd motor and my 2nd battery pack and car died on me while passing a logging truck on the way into work. Luckily, I was going fast enough at the time to still pass and then pull off to the side of the road. Dreaded Check EV System warning. This is really frustrating.

 

[fromport]

On my 3rd motor and my 2nd battery pack and car died on me while passing a logging truck on the way into work. Luckily, I was going fast enough at the time to still pass and then pull off to the side of the road. Dreaded Check EV System warning. This is really frustrating.

How often have you had the "check ev system" message while driving during those almost 120k miles ?

 

[TonyWilliams]

That's not good. It failed like the speed sensor issue.

I suspect a new speed sensor comes with every motor, so you've had three different ones.

 

[smkettner]

116,500 miles on the Rav as of 08-5-16.

Do you still have a warranty?

 

[Bassman]

Yeah, I'm still under warranty. The motor was replaced in January of this year and the traction battery pack was replaced in March of this year. The Toyota Factory Rep said 12 months unlimited miles on the motor. The battery pack is brand new, so it's covered for another 8 years , 100K miles, I think. I'm about ready to tell them they need to buy my car back. I can't trust it. This is the same issue that I brought the car into the dealer three times. First time I pulled into to get some Hay at the feed store. Came out and the car wouldn't go. It wouldn't go into D or R. Towed it to the dealer and the dealer said it was the 12 volt battery (also indicated the battery pack was bad, but they didn't think it was that), so I replaced the 12 volt battery, but then 2 months later it did it again. Pulled into my Mom's convalescent hospital. When I went to leave, car wouldn't go. Wouldn't go into D or R. Towed it to the dealer and they replaced the battery pack per Tesla. Now 6.5 months later, it dies while passing a logging truck. Could have been catastrophic. Wouldn't go into D or R. So three times for the same issue. Check EV System came up all three times. How does the lemon law work. Tony didn't you have one bought back?
Glenn

 

[miimura]

You are way over the miles for Lemon Law. As long as you don't have to pay, just keep making them fix it.

 

[TonyWilliams]

... So three times for the same issue. Check EV System came up all three times. How does the lemon law work. Tony didn't you have one bought back?
Glenn

Glenn, you are WAY over the regulatory limits for California Lemon Law (within 18 months of new).

I did go to arbitration, and lost. I was too lazy to take them to court. If the car is repaired each time, I doubt you have much recourse now. It would be different if they didn't fix it.

Any judge would likely say that Toyota is acting in "good faith" and within the terms of the warranty. I'd be pretty jazzed if I got a new battery at over 100,000 miles.

Why it quits after you had both the motor and battery pack replaced leads me to believe that the speed sensor is an issue. It is a known problem.

I know it's frustrating, but you practically have a new car for the next 100,000 miles.

 

[Bassman]

It turned out to be the service port under the dash. The 325amp fuse blew. Not under warranty. It's costing me $925.00 (Correction: It was actually $1002.00 with tax.) Bummer. Oh well, at least I'll get my car back and it wasn't the battery dying like the last time it quit on me.

 

[fromport]

It turned out to be the service port under the dash. The 325amp fuse blew. Not under warranty. It's costing me $925.00. Bummer. Oh well, at least I'll get my car back and it wasn't the battery dying like the last time it quit on me.

Were you in sport mode and accelerating heavy when it happened ?
That fuse, no matter what, shouldn't have popped under normal driving conditions.

 

[TonyWilliams]

It turned out to be the service port under the dash. The 325amp fuse blew. Not under warranty. It's costing me $925.00. Bummer. Oh well, at least I'll get my car back and it wasn't the battery dying like the last time it quit on me.

Were you in sport mode and accelerating heavy when it happened ?
That fuse, no matter what, shouldn't have popped under normal driving conditions.

That fuse is a commodity part (maybe $100 to $150).

There is a reason it popped, and it will likely happen again.

Having a dealer rip you off for that much money just irks the crap out of me. It can be replaced in less than 20 minutes:

1) put car on lift or jacks

2) Remove a dozen-ish plastic buttons and small screws

3) Remove mid-underbody plastic panel

4) Remove four M6 bolts (requires 10mm wrench or socket) from traction battery junction box

5) Remove junction box cover

6) Remove two M8 bolts (requires 12mm or 13mm socket)

7) Remove fuse

8) Reinstall everything

That is it !!!

 

[Bassman]

Thanks Tony. I'll remember that if it ever happens again. The dealer just did what Tesla told them to do. The part came from Tesla, as well as the diagnosis. The fuse was kind of square with orange plastic around the edge on one side.
To answer the other question, yeah I was in sport mode and accelerating hard to pass a logging truck.
Glenn

 

[fromport]

"Bassman" wrote:
Thanks Tony. I'll remember that if it ever happens again. The dealer just did what Tesla told them to do. The part came from Tesla, as well as the diagnosis. The fuse was kind of square with orange plastic around the edge on one side.

The fuse you just described is the fuse under the passenger seat.
Apart from 4 x 10mm nuts, you just use your hands to replace it.
It is less than 10 minutes work (5 if you are experienced ;-) )


"Bassman" wrote:
To answer the other question, yeah I was in sport mode and accelerating hard to pass a logging truck.


Even under those conditions, that should have never happened!

 

[smkettner]

I assume the fuse is after the main contactor so not 400 volts to contend with.

 

[fromport]

I assume the fuse is after the main contactor so not 400 volts to contend with.

This orange fuse is the fuse the fireman will try to pull when the car is in an accident to totally paralyze the EV

 

[TonyWilliams]

There are two fuses on the battery. One is accessed under the passenger seat, and the other is on the bottom front of the battery. I described the latter previously, which would require lifting the car, and perhaps 20 minutes of time to remove a plastic panel, then four M6 screws (10mm wrench), then physically unbolt the fuse. The second fuse is under the seat and orange.

With JdeMO installs, this orange fusible link (built by Tyco) is modified slightly. To access it, we exchange the four M6 hex head bolts (that require a 10mm wrench) with M6 wing nuts and washers for the cover under the passenger seat. You can then remove the cover in about 60 seconds.

Then, you press an orange tab and lift the black handle to the fusible link.

This ENTIRE process can be accomplished in UNDER two minutes. I probably do it regularly in under a minute.

I recommend disconnecting the 12 volt battery PRIOR to removing the fusible link, so that a "Check EV System" error is enabled.

*********

This is the underbody fuse for the onboard charger:

This is the under the passenger seat fusible link: