Repair techs cannot communicate with onboard computer

[root710]

My car has been at the dealership for a week now and they have been unable to diagnose the problem because they can’t seem to communicate with the vehicle to access the diagnostic codes. They are using the required Tesla access codes with no luck and Toyota not Tesla seems to know what to do.
It all started when I drove to the store a few blocks away. When I came out of the store and started the car it only shifted from park to neutral. Drive or reverse did not work. Over course the screen of death saying to take the car to the dealership immediately. Had it flatbed towed to Frank Toyota in National City.
I suspect from reading the forum that it may be the traction motor or traction battery. But have not heard of a situation where they can’t access the computer to get the fault codes.
Anyone have a similar problem or any ideas?

 

[miimura]

Open a case with the Toyota Experience Center at 800-331-4331 and ask for an EV specialist to get involved. Also, ask the service manager to escalate the case from their side with TIS. Something doesn't smell right here.

 

[alflash]

... I suspect from reading the forum that it may be the traction motor or traction battery. But have not heard of a situation where they can’t access the computer to get the fault codes.
Anyone have a similar problem or any ideas?

To diagnose a malfunction of the Tesla systems of this car, need to use a special program and a cable that connects to the DLC3 No.2 connector.

Reading codes, collecting and analyzing data, etc. is available. using remote diagnostics* https://alflash.com.ua/service/rav4ev-precheck-customize-list-2/ .
*
http://alflash.com.ua/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=3358

 

[hokiematt]

As Vlad notes above, there are no 'Tesla access codes'; a dealership will need a copy of the Tesla Powertrain software and the adapter cable that connects to the diagnostic plug located in the left rear cargo area. The standard Toyota Techstream software really doesn't offer much help in diagnosing Tesla-side problems.

If you're getting the 'READY' indicator on the instrument cluster, you do not have a high voltage battery or contactor issue. If you're getting a 'service EV soon/immediately' warning, most likely accompanied by other warnings such as power steering fault, it's likely you've got a motor with a coolant leak. As mentioned in other threads on here, you or a mechanic can easily pull out the speed sensor at the end of the motor (passenger side) and see if there are traces of coolant indicating an internal seal leak. The Tesla Powertrain software will likely report a 'speed sensor' fault condition.

 

[root710]

As Vlad notes above, there are no 'Tesla access codes'; a dealership will need a copy of the Tesla Powertrain software and the adapter cable that connects to the diagnostic plug located in the left rear cargo area. The standard Toyota Techstream software really doesn't offer much help in diagnosing Tesla-side problems.

If you're getting the 'READY' indicator on the instrument cluster, you do not have a high voltage battery or contactor issue. If you're getting a 'service EV soon/immediately' warning, most likely accompanied by other warnings such as power steering fault, it's likely you've got a motor with a coolant leak. As mentioned in other threads on here, you or a mechanic can easily pull out the speed sensor at the end of the motor (passenger side) and see if there are traces of coolant indicating an internal seal leak. The Tesla Powertrain software will likely report a 'speed sensor' fault condition.

I can't access the vehicle currently because it is in the shop at the dealership. But I did take a photo of the instruments upon startup before I had it towed. I do not see the ready light. In the pic the car is still in "P". Upon trying to shift into drive or reverse it goes to neutral and will no go into anything else. I didn't notice if any of the idiot lights change once it shifts to neutral. Since there is no "READY" light on the display should I assume the HV battery or contactor could be the issue? I did not test the cabin heater but it worked fine last I used it. If I can figure out how to post an attachment I will post the photo.

 

[davewill]

Definitely escalate. I'd say that either the dealer is completely clueless and isn't able to read the codes through ignorance, or there is something major wrong with the car's computers, which they should also be able to diagnose. In either case, they don't seem competent to service the car.

 

[root710]

My service manager says that the case has been escalated to the regional EV rep and has been escalated with TIS and Tesla and they still can't talk to the cars computer so they can't diagnose the problem. What the hell do they expect me to do? Just sit around with no car forever? It would seem to me that if the cars computer is unreachable, it needs to be replaced.
"HAL" seems to be experiencing problems and should be replaced before further damage.

 

[alflash]

My service manager says that the case has been escalated to the regional EV rep and has been escalated with TIS and Tesla and they still can't talk to the cars computer so they can't diagnose the problem. What the hell do they expect me to do? Just sit around with no car forever? It would seem to me that if the cars computer is unreachable, it needs to be replaced.
"HAL" seems to be experiencing problems and should be replaced before further damage.

Curiously, do they know that there is an easy way to do a remote diagnosis of the Tesla systems of this car?
Maybe you should give them a hint?

 

[root710]

Toyota service techs finally were able to communicate with the vehicle and determined my 12 battery was too low to continue with diagnostics. So they will replace that and then continue. So hopefully some news on Monday. They did find and error code but could not due further testing because of the 12V battery issue. I was at a doctor's appointment when they called so I didn't really catch what the error code was. Something about the propulsion system control.

 

[alflash]

Toyota service techs finally were able to communicate with the vehicle and determined my 12 battery was too low to continue with diagnostics. So they will replace that and then continue. So hopefully some news on Monday. They did find and error code but could not due further testing because of the 12V battery issue. I was at a doctor's appointment when they called so I didn't really catch what the error code was. Something about the propulsion system control.

SOC of 12V battery* is easily and simply determined by a common voltmeter and does not require the use / use of a diagnostic program.
Ask them for the numbers of alert codes that were read. This will avoid misdiagnosis.

 

[davewill]

Toyota service techs finally were able to communicate with the vehicle and determined my 12 battery was too low to continue with diagnostics. So they will replace that and then continue. So hopefully some news on Monday. They did find and error code but could not due further testing because of the 12V battery issue. I was at a doctor's appointment when they called so I didn't really catch what the error code was. Something about the propulsion system control.

OMG! They didn't bother to notice the 12v battery was low? Isn't that the FIRST thing they should check as soon as they pop the hood? What kind of a clown car of a shop are they?

 

[hokiematt]

Toyota service techs finally were able to communicate with the vehicle and determined my 12 battery was too low to continue with diagnostics. So they will replace that and then continue. So hopefully some news on Monday. They did find and error code but could not due further testing because of the 12V battery issue. I was at a doctor's appointment when they called so I didn't really catch what the error code was. Something about the propulsion system control.

This sounds like they were plugged into the Toyota diagnostic port under the dash, and were reading the somewhat generic error code of "P312F: electric propulsion control module requested mil illumination". All this means is that the Tesla system has a detected problem, and has requested the 'Service EV' message on the instrument cluster. The dealer will need to use the Tesla powertrain software and connector in the left rear of the trunk to properly diagnose the issue.

 

[alflash]

Toyota service techs finally were able to communicate with the vehicle and determined my 12 battery was too low to continue with diagnostics. So they will replace that and then continue. So hopefully some news on Monday. They did find and error code but could not due further testing because of the 12V battery issue. I was at a doctor's appointment when they called so I didn't really catch what the error code was. Something about the propulsion system control.

This sounds like they were plugged into the Toyota diagnostic port under the dash, and were reading the somewhat generic error code of "P312F: electric propulsion control module requested mil illumination". All this means is that the Tesla system has a detected problem, and has requested the 'Service EV' message on the instrument cluster. The dealer will need to use the Tesla powertrain software and connector in the left rear of the trunk to properly diagnose the issue.

It is not necessary to contact the dealer to read the trouble codes, obtain and analyze data of RAV4EV Tesla system.
This can be done at home using the capabilities of remote diagnostics.

 

[asavage]

Alternatively, one can "purchase" the Tesla Powertrain Diagnostic software -- cracked -- and set it up in a dedicated OS install, then put together a cable that plugs into the Tesla Gateway box at the LR of the vehicle, and which has a RJ45 connector on the other end, plug that into a Ethernet<->USB adapter.

Then you can talk to the Tesla bits directly.

I've obtained and installed the TPD software, I have built the adapter cable, but my current Ethernet<->USB adapter is USB-C and my dedicated auto diag laptop is USB-A, so I had to order an older LAN<->USB adapter, which will arrive today.

The cable can be built from a spare Ethernet patch cord and a $9 OBDII Male connector (got mine from Amazon, because it was convenient), and the Ethernet<->USB adapters are $10-30 "everywhere", but the software is by far the biggest expense. But it can be got. Or, at least, it can be for now, unless Putin has his way

 

[alflash]

... The cable can be built from a spare Ethernet patch cord and a $9 OBDII Male connector (got mine from Amazon, because it was convenient), and the Ethernet<->USB adapters are $10-30 "everywhere", but the software is by far the biggest expense. But it can be got. Or, at least, it can be for now, unless Putin has his way

Yes
For example,

 

[asavage]

Yes, I used your wiring guide to make my cable, thanks!

I've obtained and installed the TPD software, I have built the adapter cable, but my current Ethernet<->USB adapter is USB-C and my dedicated auto diag laptop is USB-A, so I had to order an older LAN<->USB adapter, which will arrive today.

My USB<->Ethernet adapter (Startech USB31000S) works OK when tested as the sole ethernet provider to the laptop, and the TPD software shows the adapter, but no matter if I set Network Configuration to "Vehicle Mode" or "Ethernet" mode, cannot get TPD "modem" light.

I have double-checked my adapter cable wiring.

(click on images for larger)

 

[alflash]

Yes, I used your wiring guide to make my cable, thanks!

I've obtained and installed the TPD software, I have built the adapter cable, but my current Ethernet<->USB adapter is USB-C and my dedicated auto diag laptop is USB-A, so I had to order an older LAN<->USB adapter, which will arrive today.

My USB<->Ethernet adapter (Startech USB31000S) works OK when tested as the sole ethernet provider to the laptop, and the TPD software shows the adapter, but no matter if I set Network Configuration to "Vehicle Mode" or "Ethernet" mode, cannot get TPD "modem" light.
I have double-checked my adapter cable wiring.
(click on images for larger) ...

In what state (OFF or Ign ON or Ready) is your vehicle in these checks?
What is the state (blink or OFF) of the green LED inside the Gateway in these checks?
Have you done the Ethernet (TCP/IPv4) properties setting?

 

[asavage]

In what state (OFF or Ign ON or Ready) is your vehicle in these checks?
What is the state (ON or OFF) of the red LED inside the Gateway in these checks?
Have you done the Ethernet (TCP/IPv4) properties setting?

Ign ON (but not Ready)

I didn't realize that the Gateway has an LED inside; is it visible from the outside?

TCP/IPv4: What, DHCP won't do? That makes sense: the Gateway isn't a DHCP server, but with no help file nor setup instructions, I'm left guessing what the laptop's IP should be -- what the Gateway expects.

[later]

It seems Tesla likes the 192.169.90.x subnet? I set the laptop to 192.168.90.125 but no progress.

 

[alflash]

In what state (OFF or Ign ON or Ready) is your vehicle in these checks?
What is the state (ON or OFF) of the red LED inside the Gateway in these checks?
Have you done the Ethernet (TCP/IPv4) properties setting?

Ign ON (but not Ready)
I didn't realize that the Gateway has an LED inside; is it visible from the outside?
TCP/IPv4: What, DHCP won't do? That makes sense: the Gateway isn't a DHCP server, but with no help file nor setup instructions, I'm left guessing what the laptop's IP should be -- what the Gateway expects.
[later]
It seems Tesla likes the 192.169.90.x subnet? I set the laptop to 192.168.90.125 but no progress.

Take a look
https://youtu.be/J-nOMmLsYOY
HTH,

 

[asavage]

Thanks for that, at least I could verify:

IP address:     192.168.90.125
Subnet mask:    255.255.255.0
Gateway:        [blank]

Should TPD's Network Configuration be set to "Vehicle Mode" or "Ethernet Mode" (I tried both, no good).

I am working with my own, running and functional vehicle. I do not know that seeing the Gateway's LED will help. What would the LED tell me? I can see if the Gateway is awake by the indicators in the USB<->LAN dongle. They do go off when the Gateway is asleep.

-----

A thought: the early Tesla Model S ethernet did not do Auto MDI-X. Your cable is wired Tx->Tx and Rx->Rx, which I thought odd, but you have been using your various home-built routers for years with that wiring. I'm now wondering if the RAV4 EV's Gateway doesn't do Auto MDI-X, and that the Toyota cable is wired MDI-X, and that your setups do the line negotiation but my USB<->LAN dongle doesn't. I've checked the StarTech's specs for USB31000S and they say it does. And, on the laptop, if I shut off wifi, the dongle works as the primary LAN interface fine for normal data when connected wired to my home network.

Nah, the activity light on the dongle is winking, so I imagine data is moving to it at least.

Auto MDI-X is supposed to be ubiquitous these days, so I kind of doubt I have outlier hardware. But I'm chasing at rainbows, since I feel that I've checked the easy stuff.