Errors After Inverter control board replacement and problems with re-flash.

[Arlin]

Hmm so don't bolt the motor in? It has no coolant and the tie rods are not hooked to the spindles. Also this was during testing with 25amps of charger on a full 12v battery

 

[Arlin]

Does it need coolant?

It goes into drive but then shifts to neutral. Contactors are still closed and the DC/DC is still running! I did put the CV shafts in and did up a few bolts. But it has no coolant does it need that to spin? Also front wheels are off the ground. Contactors don't open until I push the power button to shut it off.

 

[Arlin]

And it says check power steering. But the power steering works before I try to push the go peddle.

 

[asavage]

I don't have anything to add, except that running the rotor without coolant will quickly eat the inside lip of the rotor seal. Regardless of assembly grease, I'd keep the running to a minimum.

I ran mine with no axles installed but with the cooling loop connected and pumps running and normal. The RAV4 EV has Park and Creep, so I had to be careful not to manually push the Park button, and even so, when I turned off the car, the car engages Park via its own electric motor anyway, and the rotor's inertia caused some grinding of the Park pawl

 

[Arlin]

my rotor is not tuning so far

 

[Arlin]

I don't have anything to add, except that running the rotor without coolant will quickly eat the inside lip of the rotor seal. Regardless of assembly grease, I'd keep the running to a minimum.

I ran mine with no axles installed but with the cooling loop connected and pumps running and normal. The RAV4 EV has Park and Creep, so I had to be careful not to manually push the Park button, and even so, when I turned off the car, the car engages Park via its own electric motor anyway, and the rotor's inertia caused some grinding of the Park pawl

I did the rotor coolant delete. Tesla should have never run the coolant into the rotor like that.

 

[Arlin]

Hmm so as soon as I turn the car on to Ready. It gives me the speed sensor fault. I have not pushed any peddles. I just tried another sensor. It didn't help. I might have pulled on the wires pretty hard a couple times when I forgot to unhook the sensor while lowering the motor.

 

[Arlin]

I had my son watch the bake lights and they do turn off after I let go of the peddle.
So I guess I have a faulty drive inverter.

I also did try unhooking the speed sensor on the side of the motor and it says more speed sensor faults Like DI W009 and DI W074.

I guess the drive inverter needs to come out. I think this thing is done. I am ready to part out the Rav 4.

 

[Arlin]

Hmm when testing further and playing with the AC I found the AC compressor stops working when the fault happens but I can hear both contactors open after I turn the ignition off....
So after dinner I'll pull the plug off the drive unit and measure the DC voltage before and after I push the go peddle to see if maybe a contractor is failed? It's weird as this started as a running vehicle. And even right now the AC works.

 

[asavage]

What you may be hearing is a "walking the contactors" test for welded contacts, which doesn't necessarily imply that the contactors weren't off already, when you heard what you heard when you turned the car off.

"Walking the contactors" is a test procedure where one HV contactor is closed, the output is measured, it's opened, measured again, then if that passes, the same sequence is performed on the other contactor. IDK if this occurs on the RAV4, but it does on eg BMW i3 and it's plausible. What I'm volunteering is that you don't assume that Sound A = Action B; it might not be the case.

AC blows cold = HV contactors are closed, yes.

 

[Arlin]

Ok. So did another quick test. I push the brake and then push the ignition button and it goes ready. I then measure the DC + and DC - at the entrance to the motor and it was 364vdc. Then I got in and put it in drive and tried the throttle and it faulted and then I measured the + - at the drive unit and it was still 364vdc. It seems once I try the go peddle it faults and won't let anything using power from the HV pack to work and for some reason the power steering quits as well (is the power steering from the HV pack?).

I won't have access to the car until Friday. I am thinking 1 of two things at this point.
1 is reprogram it all...
2 is the swap the whole power stage of the inverter out with the sport unit.

 

[asavage]

The PS system is 12v.

 

[Arlin]

The PS system is 12v.

Why does it stop working? The DC-DC it still keeping the system at 14+ VDC

 

[asavage]

IDK. You've touched a lot of systems, I'm ready to tap out.

 

[Arlin]

IDK. You've touched a lot of systems, I'm ready to tap out.

Well thanks for all your help. Technical I only touched 1 system. But keeping an eye on many. Trust me. I have put way more into this than I should have. And all while not being allowed in my shop every second week.

 

[alflash]

...
2 is the swap the whole power stage of the inverter out with the sport unit.

This action is useless and pointless, since the Software configuration of the Sport Unit will not allow it to be implanted into the RAV4 EV. Gateway does not recognize this unit as a member of its "team".

In addition, as I understand, in the current state of your car, the EPS system problem is far from the main one...

In addition, you have not checked and analyzed all stages of the state of the contactors, for example, when charging the battery...

 

[alflash]

...
"Walking the contactors" is a test procedure where one HV contactor is closed, the output is measured, it's opened, measured again, then if that passes, the same sequence is performed on the other contactor. IDK if this occurs on the RAV4, but it does on eg BMW i3 and it's plausible. What I'm volunteering is that you don't assume that Sound A = Action B; it might not be the case.
...

Possible state statuses of contactors in case of an unsuccessful attempt to enable the Ready mode in RAV4EV

 

[asavage]

Why does it stop working? The DC-DC it still keeping the system at 14+ VDC

The IC message, "Check Power Steering System" pops up at various points for no correlated reason.

Today, I was testing five more Gateway cables and I performed an operation without proper preparation -- entirely my fault, though I thought I'd canceled the op, but then it proceeded unexpectedly, more crappy programming -- and suddenly it came on on the IC: https://asavage.dyndns.org/Toyota/RAV4/EV/Owners_Rigs/Al's_2014_blue/PS_Error_01b.mp4

For no reason that I could fathom.
You have to ignore it and deal with issues that are real or more important. The marriage of the Toyota and Tesla stuff is incomplete and has problem areas, and it makes more sense if you lower your expectations of the quality of the merge.

 

[Arlin]

Ok Tried a different inverter power stage. Same main control board. Its the same issue.

 

[Arlin]

Shift into Drive and get a fault.