Silver 2014 #2872

[hbrav]

Just wanted to update on my 2012 RAV with 83K miles. Finished up the SS Cup coolant delete, went smoothly. I used a 1 1/4 " titanium Milwaukee drill bit to remove the coolant tube from manifold. Cleaned it up with sandpaper on a dremel tool. Pressed the SS cup with vice, 2x4 piece of wood had layed both SS and manifold with Purmatex sleeve sealant green and very viscous. I pressed the SS into the manifold it went in very tight and I left it to dry overnight. I should have photo'd it but just like the above very clean and it caps off the coolant tube path easily leaving both original paths to the Stator jacket but also up to the flyover tube which I believe is better to have going than capped off. I replaced the manifold using two circles of black silicone gasket around the round portion and lower square area of manifold. As well I applied silicone grease to the two gaskets on flyover and lower stator path. Let this dry for another 24 hours.

Second process was to refill with Zerex G48 took about 1/2 gallon. I tried to burp the system of air then went to drive the vehicle. Oh Know I got the following error message 10 minutes into driving 45 mph. Dropped back to this super useful forum and decided I had either learn the Toyota method or get a Coolant Vacuum kit. I did the latter getting a loaner Coolant Vacuum from O'Reillys. It worked great sucking the air from the system and then taking in another 1/4 gallon of coolant.

Car worked with no error after I removed the air from the system. To note I tried also to charge the car with the error and it immediately stopped charging and left a system error charging malfunction on right side screen on dash. After the vacuum pull of air out of coolant path that error immediately went away and I was then able to charge the car successfully. Then I went on a drive and car worked perfectly!!!

Its been a few days the car has been a daily driver all over town and up to freeway speeds. So far everything seems to be working flawlessly!!! Want to thank the forum and the SS Cap from Mr Hyde at Armstrong Mobile Lift for the awesome and inexpensive fix to the coolant leaking shaft seal problem. Ours has its original motor with 83K miles going strong!! Hoping to get another 80K out of it trouble free. The Model S is up next not looking forward to dropping its motor.

Steve
2012 Toyota Rav 88K
2013 Tesla Model S P85+ 36K

 

[asavage]

The plug (& later the cup) took a lot of effort by about five of us over the past few months, for what can now be described as a "simple fix".

 

[hbrav]

Thanks for your work!!! Indeed keeping these great vehicles on the road longer. Orphan vehicles which neither Toyota or Tesla have any interest in!! And thanks for everyone involved in the FIX it works great!!! at repairing the Tesla mistake.

Steve
12 Rav Pearl White 83K
13 Tesla Model S P85+ Black
67 VW Bug original

 

[Lido]

How long did the whole repair take? I've been considering either trying this myself or asking a local shop if they'd be willing to attempt.

 

[asavage]

Depending upon the tools you have available to cut the taper tube off the manifold and grind down to the base casting, you could do this in a day yourself pretty easily. The sleeve/bearing mount compound really ought to have overnight to do its anaerobic thing, but you could reassemble it and wait overnight to add coolant the next day.

On the RAV4 it's easy. On a Model S/X . . . much harder.

 

[ctyler653]

This thread has meandered a bit, which I don't mind, but getting back to my car.

I had my motor rebuilt by QC Charge at the end of July. The loud whine is now down to a mild one and a fancy looking red delete cover is now installed. When I picked the car up they mentioned I needed new shocks/struts and I could get that done at any shop.

I had the shocks and struts replaced mid October and when I picked up the car it was reporting the 'Take car to Dealer immediately' message. I assumed they had disconnected the 12V battery during the replacement. I've seen this message before temporarily when doing things 12V battery related (e.g. jumping my wife's car). I have not noticed any driving or charging differences since, but the message is persistent. Autozone tested the 12V battery as "Good".

I assume the warning is originating in the Tesla side and I'll need to get one of @asavage 's cables to see what the complaint is.

 

[asavage]

If the "Check EV" IC message persists beyond five ON/OFF cycles, TPD may (should, but not 100% always) give you good clue(s) as to why.

 

[asavage]

An email address didn't come through with your payment for the TPD adapter cable, so here's your
Tracking Number
9400111105502882055285

It'll go out with tomorrow's mail.

 

[ctyler653]

I got the cable last week and was able to read out the Alerts with the TPD v1.1.46 software:
THC_d0005 Battery Coolant Pump 1 Error
THC_d0006 Battery Coolant Pump 2 Error

I found and followed the posts in Help replacing a coolant pump -- located the pumps, tried to listened for the pumps, ran the 32 minute "Coolant Air Purge", and finally got to the mention of the "Clear THC DTCs" function. The clear worked! I should have read through the whole thing first, but I was on my small phone screen in the dark. I'm not sure why the strut replacement would cause this. Maybe they unplugged them at some point.