Pictures from my onboard charger fuse replacement

[miimura]

I assume you have used the fused disconnect under the passenger seat before working on the high voltage stuff. The most likely culprit is failing to put that back correctly.

 

[Fuser]

Yep had disconnected to complete work, will check re-connect...

 

[hokiematt]

Ran down the ABS and IC issues as blown fuses. So everything seems operable except: 1) in neutral, car does not allow rolling; have tried the transmission/engine override key several times; feels like it worked, but no change; 2) car goes into drive, makes the electrical sound, but no power to engine. Am thinking that I mis-connected in either junction box or DC-DC. Thoughts on easy way to test DC-DC connections to start to track down without electrocuting myself?

What are you referring to as "the transmission/engine override key"? This description makes no sense, particularly for an EV.

There is an electrically actuated parking pawl on the motor assembly; if it is not disengaging, the vehicle will not roll in neutral, nor will you be able to drive.

What fuses did you blow? Why did these fuses blow? Perhaps you also blew the fuse powering the parking pawl motor. There is a 30A fuse labeled 'P CNT MTR', as well as a relay 'P CNT MTR'

 

[Konduit EV]

Ran down the ABS and IC issues as blown fuses. So everything seems operable except: 1) in neutral, car does not allow rolling; have tried the transmission/engine override key several times; feels like it worked, but no change; 2) car goes into drive, makes the electrical sound, but no power to engine. Am thinking that I mis-connected in either junction box or DC-DC. Thoughts on easy way to test DC-DC connections to start to track down without electrocuting myself?

Hmmm jumping in here to see if I can add some insight. Regardless of whether or not everything is correctly in place “regarding the work you have done at least” the gear selector should allow you to put it into neutral. When you push the “ignition” do you hear the contactors click? The car will not go in drive nor will the “ready” indicator stay on if the contactors to not close. Sounds like the HV loop is “broken” somewhere. On the DC/DC make sure you have the silver plate on the housing for the HV in wires. There is a loop there that needs to be closed for the BMS to allow the closing of the contactors. Regarding an incorrect connection in the HV junction box, I wouldn’t think that’s the case as for each cable they can only fit exactly where they are meant to go. IE the 2 cables coming out of the back of the HV junction box have different sized terminals and nuts holding them in place and only as much wire length to get where they need to go, meaning you can’t switch them around. If I recall correctly the same goes for the 2 cables going into the front of the HV junction box. Now the connectors are the same as well. You could check that they are seated properly and clicked into place? Inside the OBVC there are 3 connectors that had to be unplugged and 2 wires that need unscrewing so that you can get the housing around the OBVC off, you sure that you reconnected all of those somewhere between the reinstallation process? I hate to make you second guess things that may not be the issue but just trying to help narrow things down. Although I wouldn’t be sure if that would just affect charging rather than not allowing the car to go into drive. I haven’t made that mistake so uncharted territory for me.

 

[alflash]

...There is an electrically actuated parking pawl on the motor assembly; if it is not disengaging, the vehicle will not roll in neutral, nor will you be able to drive.
...

As illustration
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/park_lock.png

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