Charging: Stopped by System Malfunction

[Improve_RAV4EV]

No, it's not late, I appreciate this info.

In my OBC, this measurement shows OL
Looks like the problem is at the magnet lip circuit on the side!? Any chance of fixing that?

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Anyway, this is what I'm planning to do (see pic).

I'll run a cable from X042 pin #3 (HVIL Out) to J5 pin #3, with a 60Ω resistor soldered in between.

This way, when you remove J5, the new resistor will be disconnected, like in the original.

Question: Couldn't read on PCB, is J5 pin #3 the top pin?

 

[asavage]

Did you apply a small magnet to the side of the Lid Switch? It should not be a powerful magnet (or, as I did in my pic above, I used a fairly powerful magnet, but held it an inch away). Here's a fragment of the picture I posted above, when I was taking that 71Ω reading of the Lid Switch circuit:



The reed switch could be damaged if you use too powerful a magnet right next to it, reed switches are delicate.

The OEM magnet is on the lid (duh) and you can't measure with the lid in place, so you have to supply a different magnet to do this check.

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Question: Couldn't read on PCB, is J5 pin #3 the top pin?

The diagram from Tesla in which you circled the resistor network (that I copied from the Tesla Service Manual) does not match what I traced on my spare OBC yesterday. Both Tesla's and Toyota's documentation have errors, we've found over the years.

I don't see a way to externally insert a spurious resistor that keeps the Lid Switch portion of the circuit intact. And, if you're going to do away with both the Lid Switch check and the Control PCB resistor network, you might as well just glob a resistor across X042 3 & 9 and call it a day.

I think doing an external resistor bypass is a Bad Idea, but I'm not your Dad, lol. You can make it work if you try hard enough, but there is always the next guy to think of, and unless you can keep your repairs inside the box . . .

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If you repeat the test of the resistor network on the Control PCB that I did (the one that shows the wacked 71Ω reading due to my crap probes) and obtain zero ohms, then -- if it were me -- I'd buy one of Matt's OBCs with new fuses already installed. That's a better/safer long-term fix. You get an OBC with the correct programming (no guessing if a used Model S/X PCB can be reflashed for RAV4 EV use) and replaced AC Input fuses, which are a consumable and should be replaced any time you have it apart.

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Did you apply a small magnet to the side of the Lid Switch?

A small round strong magnet, 3/4" away, shows 0.4Ω

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

If you repeat the test of the resistor network on the Control PCB that I did

This measurement shows 60.1Ω

 

[asavage]

Good. The Lid Switch circuit works (at least the portion from J11 out/back to the switch) and the resistor network is intact on the Control PCB.

You should be able to use the diagram I posted to trace the various wiring segments and track down the open.

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Problem is the MB:

 

[alflash]

Questions for the participants.
1. Can you formulate in one sentence of no more than 10 words the main purpose of the entire HVIL line?
2. Can you formulate in one sentence of no more than 10 words the main purpose of the entire HVIL line fragment that is in the Charger?

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Questions for the participants.
1. Can you formulate in one sentence of no more than 10 words the main purpose of the entire HVIL line?
2. Can you formulate in one sentence of no more than 10 words the main purpose of the entire HVIL line fragment that is in the Charger?

Probably in case somebody opens the OBC lid while driving

 

[asavage]

I'm confused. Three posts up, you said, "This measurement shows 60.1Ω" under a picture of me testing the Control PCB's resistor network. That's a "board is good" value.

If you mean this diagram, 60Ω resistor network connection shows OL (N/C)
The rest are good connections.


View attachment 1347

But this says the opposite.

This:

• If you're measuring the PCB (not the connector!)
• If you've got the magnet in place to close the Lid Switch

Then, that is a problem with the Control PCB. But rather than testing at J4 upper row to lower row, you should test J4 lower row to J11 lower row (ie test across the board, and leave the Lid Switch circuit out of this test).

It's tricky to probe the Control PCB's connectors in this test, because you have to get your probe to the bottom, but not on an insulated (potted) portion, so test repeatedly until you're certain you have made good contact. Since the HVIL circuit isn't connected to anything else on the board, it's OK for your probes to contact more than one connector pin (which is why I could take this picture while only holding one probe: the J11 probe is just sort of wedged into position):

 

[alflash]

Probably in case somebody opens the OBC lid while driving

How many bolts do you need to unscrew to remove the top cover?
Did the rats get wrenches and learn to use them?
Let's wait, maybe other versions will appear...

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

I'm confused. Three posts up, you said, "This measurement shows 60.1Ω" under a picture of me testing the Control PCB's resistor network. That's a "board is good" value.

I'm sorry, I must have made another mistake.
The correct diagram below.

All the measurements are done on the PCB, as in your pic.

I approached the strong magnet, about 3/4" and measured between top 3 & bottom 2 of J4. Still OL.

 

[alflash]

I'm sorry, I must have made another mistake.
The correct diagram below.

All the measurements are done on the PCB, as in your pic.

I approached the strong magnet, about 3/4" and measured between top 3 & bottom 2 of J4. Still OL.

Why not briefly short-circuit the reed switch wires and continue testing?

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Why not briefly short-circuit the reed switch wires and continue testing?

You mean like this?
Still OL between top 3 & bottom 2 of J4 (3 & 9 of X042).

 

[alflash]

You mean like this?
Still OL between top 3 & bottom 2 of J4 (3 & 9 of X042).
View attachment 1354

Excuse me, but I don't know X042 connector in RAV4EV

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Excuse me, but I don't know X042 connector in RAV4EV

It is called X042 by Tesla, called D4 by Toyota:

 

[alflash]

It is called X042 by Tesla, called D4 by Toyota:

View attachment 1355

Thanks for clatification.
But I don't understand why to designate connectors of one manufacturer's car, use the name of another. In the album of electrical connections of the Toyota RAV4EV 2012-2014MY charger there is no connector with such a number.
1/2 off-topic. IMHO, Excuse ne, but as for me, you have already exceeded the time for eliminating this malfunction by approx. 2 days...

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Thanks for clatification.
But I don't understand why to designate connectors of one manufacturer's car, use the name of another. In the album of electrical connections of the Toyota RAV4EV 2012-2014MY charger there is no connector with such a number.
1/2 off-topic. IMHO, Excuse ne, but as for me, you have already exceeded the time for eliminating this malfunction by approx. 2 days...

This is my 3rd week in this repair effort.
Anyway, I'm going with plan "B". Enough time loss.

 

[asavage]

Using X042 (Tesla's designation) is my fault, and OP has been following my lead. As I expended a great deal of effort to write the only Wiki article I know of for the GEN1 OBC, I think and converse using Tesla's nomenclature.

Still OL between top 3 & bottom 2 of J4 (3 & 9 of X042).

That includes the side-trip to the external J5 connector, which is the loop you haven't said you've proved out yet.

If I understand correctly, divided into four parts. You've tested two: the Control PCB resistor network (60Ω) and the Lid Switch circuit. I haven't heard about tests on the remaining two.

View attachment OBC_HVIL_Circuit-2.jpg

 

[Improve_RAV4EV]

Using X042 (Tesla's designation) is my fault, and OP has been following my lead. As I expended a great deal of effort to write the only Wiki article I know of for the GEN1 OBC, I think and converse using Tesla's nomenclature.


That includes the side-trip to the external J5 connector, which is the loop you haven't said you've proved out yet.

If I understand correctly, divided into four parts. You've tested two: the Control PCB resistor network (60Ω) and the Lid Switch circuit. I haven't heard about tests on the remaining two.

View attachment 1356

I'm sorry, I thought I edited my previous answer and added that the rest was checked OK.
There's continuity in those circuitry that you marked "untested". I checked them all.

I used a magnet instead or lid.

However, all the checks are made with lid & side frame off. In other words, J5 was out !
Should I repeat the tests with the frame and J5 inserted?