It looks as if you're testing on the correct terminals. Given that you measured well above 60Ω on the OBC's Logic connector pins 3 & 9, you can check further and pin down whether the open circuit is at the Lid Switch side or the resistor side of the OBC's internal HVIL loop. Below diagram is from the 2012 Tesla service manual, but the RAV4 EV OBC is the same part and is wired the same way for the HVIL loop:
On the OBC's Logic connector, where you were testing before, pick one terminal and use it for one of your ohmmeter's leads. For the other lead, backprobe that external jumper (either terminal: they're shorted together). Your ohmmeter should read either 0Ω, 60Ω, or OL.
- If it reads 0 (or under 1, anyway), the lid switch circuit is OK; look at the resistor side of the circuit
- If it reads 60 (or thereabouts), the resistor side of the circuit is OK; look at the lid switch side
- If it reads OL, move your ohmmeter lead on the Logic connector to the other terminal and try again (ie if you were connected to pin 3, try pin 9 now)
I know exactly where the lid switch is (on the AC Input PCB, the one you access to replace the problematic fuses) and its magnet resides . . . on the lid! I've never bothered to locate the internal HVIL resistor network in the OBC, because it hasn't presented as failed AFAIK . . . yet. But I would think either half of the circuit should be repairable.
Could be wiring (failed crimp), could be a cracked PCB, but with a reading as high as you saw, the lid switch would be a prime suspect in my mind. In any event, track down which side of the circuit is at issue first. If we decide it's one side or the other, I'll take my spare OBC apart and try to track down test points (or perhaps Matt already has this info).
How about the contactors? Do they last over 120K miles?
My first set of HV contactors failed at around 70k, under warranty. To fix it, I received a "Reman" battery pack from Tesla, and those contactors failed five years later at 122k (but who knows how many miles were on that Reman?). When I opened the Reman pack to replace both contactors, I found that Tesla had not in fact replaced them: they were the same problematic TE Conn. contactors that had issues in the early Model S/X as well as the RAV4 EV.
I replaced them with proper Gigavac GV200s, same or similar to the ones that Tesla eventually started using to repair warranty Model S/X packs. I have not heard of the GV contactors failing in service . . . but the originals? Yeah, all the time. And a PITA to replace, unless you have lots of time and a really flat work space to R&R the pack. The lid is glued on with mastic. Not fun.
My HV contactors replacement thread.
