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Yeah, they need some firmware updates for compatibility fixes, but there's no one to do the work at this point.

Even if the dealer won't do anything about the warranty, the manufacturer should still honor it through any store that carries the same brand.

Also, the Guess-o-meter is based on the efficiency of recent drives. Is it possible that winter weather is eating into your efficiency, making the numbers go down temporarily?

I know that the maker had published instructions for removal and reinstallation. If you could get a hold of those, it might be easier to get someone to do the removal (or you might decide that it could be done DIY). The company that bought them out (Konduit EV) recently became active on here...

I'm very surprised that a buy back is on the table at all, and wonder if the dealer is full of it. I'm not personally interested, but entertain offers before you accept a buy back. Someone may be willing to give you more than they offer. Another thought is to see if they'll supply pump #2 even...

Well, in photo 3867, you can see 4 tabs on the plastic plate with the foam pad on it. On photo 3870, there's 4 corresponding slots, and it should then slide to lock. It does look like the slot on the upper right might be bent a little. You might try straightening it.

It won't just slide back onto those tabs?

As I said, the fault in my case was in the plug, not the inlet. The cable and plug assembly was rated for 40a, but it obviously wasn't actually able to handle that amperage. It was a hand built cable done by a small company, and while they sincerely tried their best, their crimps weren't up to...

No, there's no reason to run the battery down, or to charge it slower, at least from the battery's perspective. Depending on the EVSE you're using, however, you might find it prudent to dial it down a bit to protect the plug and inlet. You can see below what happened when my everyday charging...

The way to retrofit a timer functionality for an EVSE isn't to interrupt the power, but to put a double pole relay in the control pilot (CP) signal. When "on" it should connect the outgoing CP to the EVSE's CP, and when "off" it should connect the outgoing CP to a 1K pull-up to 12v. If you...

Are you talking about a RAV4 EV, or is this a regular gas powered model? This forum is dedicated to the EV. They are world's apart when it comes to this sort of thing.

Looks to me like maybe it was driven off-road a bunch. Hard to explain the heavy scratches on the badging or the underside otherwise. That could explain the low miles. Also the rusted brake rotors suggest it's been sitting for a good while. The 120 miles showing is probably because the battery...

Another expensive tool you'll only use a handful of times? ;)

Any OBC you'd get from Toyota as this point is going to be reconditioned. It's anyone's guess whether a reconditioned unit would be any more reliable than a used one you'd get from another source. I suppose you'd get a 1 year warranty on the OEM part vs. the more common 0-90 day warranty on a...

Dealership service centers can vary widely. I had one dealership source reman parts for my Prius when generally you might expect them to be unwilling. Tony Williams was able to get a few of the local Toyota dealers to agree to partially remove their JDemo system when doing other repair work, by...

The RAV4EV is based on the body style that ended (in the gas version) in 2012. So, when sourcing parts that are not specific to the EV, it's useful to look for parts for that generation of RAV4.

You wouldn't replace the BMS, you'd create a bridge board to translate the BMS of the new pack to look like the RAV4EV BMS. Similar to the work done to adapt newer LEAF packs to older LEAFs. Of course, those LEAF packs are so similar that minimal effort is needed to get them to physically fit...

If there was ever a time to plug into the car to retrieve diagnostic codes, this is it. Should be well worth having @aiflash or QC Charge do that for you.

Besides, there no faster way to end up making your own embarrassing mistakes than trying to correct others.

I may have been remembering that problem, not knowing it was "clearable". I do know that low voltage can cause all sorts of weird problems. Even if it doesn't completely "ruin" the electronics, no sense in subjecting the car to the whole process of charging the battery or letting it sit at a low...