THC_d0013 Coolant heater problem detected

[alflash]

1/2 off-topic. Hope this will useful.
...

RAV4EV DTC's about HVIL.

• BMS_f008 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• BMS_f036 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• CHG_f020 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• CHG_f034 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• CHG_f097 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• DI_f007 High Voltage Interlock Fault
• DI_f086 High Voltage Interlock Fault

 

[dogger23]

Yes, the translucent cover has to be installed to complete the loop. But, so does every other orange connector the connects to anything (not just the DC-DC Converter). Many of the orange connectors that plug onto the DC-DC are KET connectors and they have built-in HVIL resistors that make contact, completely aside from their function as HV connectors.

That code could be caused by literally any one of those connectors failing to complete the HVIL loop.

I can hunt the orange cables. That's a good start.

 

[dogger23]

1/2 off-topic. Hope this will useful.
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_ch.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil3.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_sim.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/f008cause.png

Where can I find these connections?

 

[alflash]

Where can I find these connections?

The contacts indicated in the figure are located in the connectors of the specified devices.
Let me know* if you need details.

For now, I advise you to check whether the connectors that were disconnected are correctly inserted and fixed.
Update.
Tomorrow, if there are not many rocket attacks and drone attacks, I will try to show a photo indicating their numbering and the numbers of the HVIL contacts.
In the vast majority of cases, the cause of HVIL problems was careless assembly and extremely rare. Only 2-3 cases out of more than 160 faulty vehicles.

* Form for requesting a consultation.
https://diag.alflash.com.ua/rav4ev-questionnaire/

 

[asavage]

The contacts indicated in the figure are located in the connectors of the specified devices.

h1: If you removed the Service Disconnect (under the passenger seat), then that's h1 in that pic. Remove it, reinsert it. It is fussy and delicate, so be gentle. Removing it is a two-step process. You actually unlatch it twice. But, if you didn't remove it, leave it alone.

D14: that's the conector at the drive unit, if you didn't touch it, leave it alone.

D4: Onboard charger. Leave it.

D9: DC-DC Converter. Those are the four connectors to concentrate on.

• D9 Terminal Cap (at DC input cable) switch: That's the one that the translucent cover presses on.
• D9 i1, z11, z0: Those are likely the A/C Compressor, Cabin Heater, and Battery Heater, and I'm too lazy to research which is which, but it doesn't matter: these are ones you touched and should look at first.

In the vast majority of cases, the cause of HVIL problems was careless assembly and extremely rare. Only 2-3 cases out of more than 160 faulty vehicles.

+1

 

[dogger23]

Yeah, feel free to use any of the photos I took, thanks for asking.

1/2 off-topic. Hope this will useful.
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_ch.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil3.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/hvil_sim.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/f008cause.png

Update.
Thank you for the high quality photo of the breaker aka "Terminal Cap".
May I publicly use your photo.

 

[dogger23]

Hvil pins look good to me. The socket looks fine too. I'll reconnect them and see what happens.

 

[asavage]

I agree, they look in reasonable condition, no bent pins.

It's pretty easy to slice stuff when taking the glued-on-cover off; did you take any pics with the cover off?

Electrified Garage mentions that the HVIL leads for the three connectors above are the ones that are esp. easy to damage when breaking the sealant (link is to the pertinent part of the vid):



If any of the below eight wires, circled in blue, are damaged, that could cause that problem:



It looks as if there's only one 60 ohm resistor inside the DC-DC that covers the entire loop. This is a Tesla diagram, but the DC-DC is the same part on the RAV4 EV:



That being the case, maybe you could probe (with a suitable probe: a clip lead on a sewing needle is a favorite, if you don't have anything fancier around) those HVIL sockets in the DC-DC. Off the top of my head . . .

I have to recommend doing the below with the Service Disconnect removed, as that makes the car "safe" from HVDC ("safe" being relative). And you're theoretically probing a device with a 200A 12v DC fuse, so maybe disconnect the 12v battery, too. I have to say this.

With the plastic cover installed over the terminal block, plug in all but but one of the auxiliary connectors, and probe the socket of the one you didn't plug in. It should show either ~0 ohms across the HVIL sockets, or 60 ohms, nothing in-between. If that passes, plug in that connector, and disconnect the next one, and repeat.

If you probe any two and get open, or something other than 60 ohms/0 ohms, you'll need to open it back up.

 

[dogger23]

I plug everything I can conceivably see and I still have the error. If I disconnect the safety fuse under the passenger seat, I get a new error. If I disconnect any of the Cabin heater, Battery heater or AC compression I get an additional BMS_f036 HVIL error.

 

[dogger23]

I agree, they look in reasonable condition, no bent pins.

It's pretty easy to slice stuff when taking the glued-on-cover off; did you take any pics with the cover off?

Electrified Garage mentions that the HVIL leads for the three connectors above are the ones that are esp. easy to damage when breaking the sealant (link is to the pertinent part of the vid):



If any of the below eight wires, circled in blue, are damaged, that could cause that problem:

View attachment 862

It looks as if there's only one 60 ohm resistor inside the DC-DC that covers the entire loop. This is a Tesla diagram, but the DC-DC is the same part on the RAV4 EV:

View attachment 863

That being the case, maybe you could probe (with a suitable probe: a clip lead on a sewing needle is a favorite, if you don't have anything fancier around) those HVIL sockets in the DC-DC. Off the top of my head . . .

I have to recommend doing the below with the Service Disconnect removed, as that makes the car "safe" from HVDC ("safe" being relative). And you're theoretically probing a device with a 200A 12v DC fuse, so maybe disconnect the 12v battery, too. I have to say this.

With the plastic cover installed over the terminal block, plug in all but but one of the auxiliary connectors, and probe the socket of the one you didn't plug in. It should show either ~0 ohms across the HVIL sockets, or 60 ohms, nothing in-between. If that passes, plug in that connector, and disconnect the next one, and repeat.

If you probe any two and get open, or something other than 60 ohms/0 ohms, you'll need to open it back up.

I think that might be the issue, damaging that wire seems most likely at this point. I did already seal it up, but I'll give it a look.

 

[asavage]

Back in post #20, Vlad posted a diagnostic procedure for the HVIL that involves removing the logic connector D9 and probing the harness side, measuring resistance between D9 pin #6 to ground to find 240 ohms. This, with everything else in the car plugged in, so the HVIL loop is closed except the DC-DC Converter. I missed reading that and looking at the Tesla diagram harder. That tests the rest of the loop of everything except the last 60 ohm resistor inside the BMS.

Not mentioned in that procedure, but you could test the 60 ohm loop inside the DC-DC using the same test: check resistance between the D9 connector on the DC-DC Converter (not the harness this time), pins 5 & 6. It should be 60 ohms 0 ohms (shorted) with all the connectors and the terminal cover in place (to close its switch).

Easy test for your internal DC-DC HVIL wiring.

Which pins are 5 & 6?

That view is of the harness side, so you'd mirror it (flip horizontally) for the pinout of the DC-DC Converter side, plus rotate it 180° because that's the way it's installed in the vehicle:

 

[alflash]

Yeah, feel free to use any of the photos I took, thanks for asking.

Thanks for your photes and permissin!

Just in case, I advise you to check if the cover of this orange connector is inserted and secured correctly.


Usually, incorrect installation causes the code, but it is better to double-check



*

 

[alflash]

...
It looks as if there's only one 60 ohm resistor inside the DC-DC that covers the entire loop. This is a Tesla diagram, but the DC-DC is the same part on the RAV4 EV...

Dear Sir, I dispute this version.
In the DC/DC Converter there are only wires that connect in series the HVIL control contacts of the three connectors and the contacts of the "Access Cover Switch".
By inserting jumpers into these contacts and fixing this Switch in the closed state, you can check the serviceability of this component of the HVIL electrical circuit:
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/conv_hvils.jpg

 

[asavage]

Yeah, I just discovered that myself:



I mis-read this, seeing a resistor where the DC input HVIL switch is:

 

[asavage]

So, without opening the DC-DC, you can check for 0 ohms for its HVIL loop, and additionally check from either of those pins to the case/chassis of the DC-DC, so verify it's open -- if you get any reading under a couple megohms, then the HVIL loop wiring has been compromised internal to the DC-DC, and you'd want to open it back up.

 

[asavage]

Since you have the connector off already, find a suitable probe (map tack, sewing pin, ball pin) and check the resistance between D9 (harness side) and ground. Vlad's posted chart at post #20 says it should be "approximately 240 ohms". On the white car, mine reads 254:




These are cheap and easy to use, either in the receptacle socket end, or to backprobe a connector if needed; I own some fancier probes, but I'm showing here that fancy isn't needed. A couple of clip leads, a sewing needle, and a decent ohmmeter.

 

[dogger23]

Back in post #20, Vlad posted a diagnostic procedure for the HVIL that involves removing the logic connector D9 and probing the harness side, measuring resistance between D9 pin #6 to ground to find 240 ohms. This, with everything else in the car plugged in, so the HVIL loop is closed except the DC-DC Converter. I missed reading that and looking at the Tesla diagram harder. That tests the rest of the loop of everything except the last 60 ohm resistor inside the BMS.

Not mentioned in that procedure, but you could test the 60 ohm loop inside the DC-DC using the same test: check resistance between the D9 connector on the DC-DC Converter (not the harness this time), pins 5 & 6. It should be 60 ohms 0 ohms (shorted) with all the connectors and the terminal cover in place (to close its switch).

Easy test for your internal DC-DC HVIL wiring.

Which pins are 5 & 6?

That view is of the harness side, so you'd mirror it (flip horizontally) for the pinout of the DC-DC Converter side, plus rotate it 180° because that's the way it's installed in the vehicle:

View attachment 864

View attachment 865

View attachment 867

I get null value for resistance between pin 5 and ground and 5 and 6.

 

[dogger23]

Thanks for your photes and permissin!

Just in case, I advise you to check if the cover of this orange connector is inserted and secured correctly.


Usually, incorrect installation causes the code, but it is better to double-check



*

I am not worried about that plug, I get an additional error when I forget to plug it in. I have forgotten to plug it in a few times.

 

[dogger23]

Which pins are you testing here?

 

[dogger23]

So, without opening the DC-DC, you can check for 0 ohms for its HVIL loop, and additionally check from either of those pins to the case/chassis of the DC-DC, so verify it's open -- if you get any reading under a couple megohms, then the HVIL loop wiring has been compromised internal to the DC-DC, and you'd want to open it back up.

Thanks, that was a pretty easy test, but I'm glad I did it to confirm I need to open it up. I didn't see resistance values between the pins I checked.