Pursine inverter battery tap (+) and (-) for my Rav4EV

[EnerGene]

Has anyone used a Pursine inverter connected to the HV (High Voltage) traction battery?
If so, where did you tap the pack for the (+) and (-) and what type/model puresine inverter did you use?

I'm going to be at a location/building (Barn) where it's not feasible to run an extension cord.

 

[asavage]

The DC-DC Converter has a convenient location to tap HV, but I have no idea of that circuit's ampacity, so you'd want to research your inverter's input spec and do more digging as to the capacity of that circuit.

The location I'm thinking of is under the silver rectangular cover in the center of this picture:

(other pictures that give its location context are in this post of Tony's.)

Pretty much anywhere you tap you'll be downstream of the main contactor, so you'll have to have the car ON to power your inverter.

 

[cashcow]

First time I hear of tapping the HV Battery like this.

How much power are we talking about here?

The most common approach I hear is just tapping the 12v directly. This new spot seems interesting.

Did you guys know there is a grommet right under the driver's feet? Right in front of the brake pedal. I have not checked if it leads out, but on a youtube video someone used it to run wires for a trailer brake controller. There is another grommet behind the fuse box under the driver inside the cabin on the far left, but that one has a ton of wires going through it with out any space extra. The one under the feet by the brake pedal (You have to lift the carpet and foam cover so you can see it) Doesn't have any cables coming out of it. I have not checked if it leads out the rav4. There is the aerodynamic panel so I am unsure if the opening is coming inside the aero panel or outside before the panel joins the body

Anyone know?

 

[smkettner]

I would like to hear what inverter is to be used. Otherwise you should be able to get 600 to 800 watts off the 12v accessory battery with the vehicle in ready mode. Enough to run a medium fridge and tv.

 

[EnerGene]

OK, I was afraid of that. I wanted to have the car powered off while we work in the barn but have some juice.

The high voltage puresines cost way too much ~$3K (big an heavy, over 50lbs) and they are either 5-15kW or only 300-600W........lol

Load will be in the 1200W to 1500W running planers and routers etc.

My alternate option is to get one of these....
https://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/dc-dc-converters/elcon-tdc-320-12-1500w-dc-dc-converter.html

and just use my existing 12vdc 2500W (5KW surge) puresine, but it's kind of old and big also. maybe just scoop up a 1500w one on ebay. They've gotten more compact.

I really wanted just one device to just keep the inverter bolted in the car but oh well.

When I start the project I'll post picks.

 

[EnerGene]

vehicle in ready mode

How do you get the car in ready mode? Or is it just in the On state?

 

[miimura]

vehicle in ready mode

How do you get the car in ready mode? Or is it just in the On state?

It just means ON with READY indicator showing at the top of the instrument panel. There are some situations where the car can appear to be ON but not READY, like turning it on without pressing the brake pedal.

 

[davewill]

I'm not sure that you need the external DC-to-DC, the one in the car is pretty powerful. Someone around here should have the specs for it.

 

[miimura]

I'm not sure that you need the external DC-to-DC, the one in the car is pretty powerful. Someone around here should have the specs for it.

It is supposedly 2,500W, but I don't know if that is peak or continuous. I would have no qualms drawing 1,000W continuous. I even put an Anerson type connector with 100A breaker and shunt meter on my car for 12VDC power export. I have yet to put a powerful inverter on it yet even though that was the plan.

 

[asavage]

The high voltage puresines cost way too much ~$3K (big an heavy, over 50lbs) and they are either 5-15kW or only 300-600W........lol

The consumer-class inverters are a lot cheaper than anything you can buy for HVDC. Though that ElCon TDC-320-12 1500W DC-DC Converter is pretty cute, and a decent price . . . I'd like to see real reviews, though.

Load will be in the 1200W to 1500W running planers and routers etc.

Those don't need pure sine wave, they'll be happy with approximated (stair-stepped) sine wave.

. . . and just use my existing 12vdc 2500W (5KW surge) puresine, but it's kind of old and big also. maybe just scoop up a 1500w one on ebay.

Have you done the math on the input current requirement of a 1500W @ 120v inverter? You're going to need ~150A @ 12v continuous. I used to do that, but with paralleled batteries, and you don't do it for very long without something charging in the circuit.

If you want to use your RAV4EV instead of a jobsite generator or Tesla Powerwall, your idea of a HVDC input inverter is a good one. But the car will have to be ON to tap the traction pack in any safe way. The car ON in Park and HVAC OFF would work. You wouldn't save much power by trying to bypass that, IMO, though it could be done.

 

[davewill]

If I was serious about wanting to install an inverter connected to the HV bus, I'd talk to Tony Williams at QuickChargePower. He might be willing to do such an install alongside a Jdemo install. DC Quick Charging would be a useful thing to have if you're going to run your battery down using power tools on a regular basis.

 

[asavage]

So I can find them later . . .

ABSOPULSE’s CSH 2K-3U7, 2kVA output, 250-600vdc input, 26 lbs.

Adelser A037050, 120vac 18A (2200W nominal) output, 250-450vdc input

Eltek Bravo ECI 380V/3kVA Inverter, 200-400vdc input, 2500 W / 3000 VA output, 10 lbs.

eIQ Energy DA16K, 320-420vdc input, 16kw output, 6 lbs.

None appear to be plain COTS and no pricing available online, all require custom quotes.

 

[jimbo69ny]

I have a lot of experience with this. I built the T-Rex range extending trailer as a dual use device. Its a standalone unit that I can use to power my car, power my house or take it to a cabin for the weekend. Lots of uses.

I just finished building T-Rex V2 that is a camper on top of a battery. That version includes a 3000 watt dc to ac adapter. Perfect for running power tools in the forest with no power around for miles. As long as I leave myself enough range to get home, I could go into a forest, cut it down and leave a month later. haha

You would need an inverter that can handle HV in. There arent many. I found one locally from a wind installation company.

Yes your car would need to be on in ready mode if you planned on tapping the battery in the car. Its the easiest and best way. When it is on the car will maintain the temp of the battery. If you were CAN savvy you could possibly figure out what the car needs to see in order to close the battery contactors but I think that is a long hard battle that you would lose.

The best place to tap into the battery is at the junction box at the battery itself. However if you have Jdemo, you wont have any room because thats where QCP taps into it. They then bring it to their junction box under the hood.

I could help you if you need anything.

 

[TonyWilliams]

We have developed a High Voltage junction box for these types of applications (aux batteries, inverters, etc).

 

[asavage]

You would need an inverter that can handle HV in. There arent many. I found one locally from a wind installation company.

I could help you if you need anything.

Can you share the model of your HVDC inverter?

 

[jimbo69ny]

I have a Princeton Power DRI-10. It has some quirks I am working out but it does work quite well. I have videos of it on my YouTube channel and more coming soon. YouTube.com/jimbo69ny

 

[EnerGene]

@davewill

Where did you get that tray you mounted your 100A breaker?

I'm considering getting a jdemo. If so, I think I will ask Tony if he can wire something to get access to the pack.

 

[davewill]

@davewill

Where did you get that tray you mounted your 100A breaker?

I'm considering getting a jdemo. If so, I think I will ask Tony if he can wire something to get access to the pack.

That was @miimura

 

[chrisspy]

We have developed a High Voltage junction box for these types of applications (aux batteries, inverters, etc).

Nothing I saw on your website yet. When can we see specs, buy? I have the HI car with Jdemo, you may remember.
I'd like to use 120V tools like a 13A lawn mower, 15A chain saw & snowthrower (230V 22A being considered for conversion from gas).

 

[chrisspy]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3WuAM1SKtyVFvZgQ8
Directly to 12V battery, 1200W (2400W peak) inverter with load meter - works great on 12A lawn mower (showing 440W). There's 2 zones beyond extension cord length so I use the RAV4EV instead of gas tractor!
Currently mounted on top of plastic, hood partly or fully open. Only used when stationary so install/remove as needed. How important is it to have a ground to earth from inverter if tools (lawn mower has ground plug, chainsaw does not) are double insulated?
Is there a good place to tap into the 12V DC so inverter is mounted inside?