Ideas on running cables from Battery to Passenger Cabin?

[cashcow]

I bought a pure sinewave inverter and want to install it inside the passenger cabin in the rav4 ev. Only issue is... how to run the cables from the lead acid battery (Now AGM for me) inside the passenger cabin? Cables will be thick... I am looking at about 2/0 copper cable to run an induction cooktop @ around 900 - 1200 watts. Inverter can handle up to 1800 continuous. Currently use propane... but I hate the smell and fire hazard. Costing me about $10/month and plan on doing more cooking so will probably increase to $15/month + of course hazard risk. Will get http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-DIELESS-INDENT-LUG-CRIMPER-TOOL-Electrical-Battery-Terminal-Cable-Wire-/381325350981?hash=item58c8c31845:g:lZ4AAOxyrUVRmpm- for this.

 

[ph2]

If you are trying to get to the back, take off the plastic guards underneath motor bay, drop the wires from the motor bay through the bottom. On each side of the traction battery there are two channels between the battery and where they mount to the unibody. I used the larger of these for 2 gauge wire (inside 1-1/4 inch conduit) with room to spare, one wire on each side, 2/0 should fit nicely. Use a fish tape or glow rod to make it easier.

Once you reach the back, route it through one of the drain holes in the bottom of the storage compartment. You'll want to use a fitting to prevent the sheet metal from rubbing through the insulation.

Few pointers:
- Use welding wire for flexibility, it will stand up to the environment and make the install easier. Got mine from Amazon.
- USE A FUSE! Make sure not to skip this step. It should be between the positive battery terminal and the conductor.
- Watch out for pinch and rub points, especially in the back. Use zip ties and corrugated PVC (smurf) conduit in areas where the wire might get rubbed. As soon as you exit the channel on the driver side, there is a suspension component that will rub if you aren't careful.
- You can see/remove the large plugs to the compartment but will need to cut or remove the insulation/carpet on the inside to get through.
- I originally thought I could go over the pack but decided not to in order to avoid damaging the wiring there, lack of access, space and ability to tie the wire down. I also imagined every bump making the wire slap down on the battery pack... which would get old after a while.

All in all, it took me about 1-1/2 hours by myself.

 

[cashcow]

Thanks for the reply. I didn't want to install the inverter in the back of the rav4 ev. I was thinking more like on the front perhaps above the sport mode button, or maybe behind the driver seat. I was looking inside the hood and saw the clump of wires coming from the driver side fuse box. I checked under the driver side and saw the same clump come in through a water proof hole. I think this could be a good spot, but I don't see any way to reach it from the hood. Looks like I'd have to remove the whole windshield wiper assembly and hope the area is reachable. Not sure on the bottom either. I'd guess removable of the aero under cover would be needed, and then hope that spot is reachable. For some reason I think the top option would give better view but I wouldn't know.

 

[rayray]

I bought a pure sinewave inverter and want to install it inside the passenger cabin in the rav4 ev. Only issue is... how to run the cables from the lead acid battery (Now AGM for me) inside the passenger cabin? Cables will be thick... I am looking at about 2/0 copper cable to run an induction cooktop @ around 900 - 1200 watts. Inverter can handle up to 1800 continuous. Currently use propane... but I hate the smell and fire hazard. Costing me about $10/month and plan on doing more cooking so will probably increase to $15/month + of course hazard risk. Will get http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-DIELESS-INDENT-LUG-CRIMPER-TOOL-Electrical-Battery-Terminal-Cable-Wire-/381325350981?hash=item58c8c31845:g:lZ4AAOxyrUVRmpm- for this.

Somehow, your math does not compute .. in order to get 1200 watts of power out of you inverter, you will need 1500 watts off your battery x2.
that means you need over 250 AH battery to run that thing for maybe 30 minutes, before you drain the batteries ..
And you are trying to do this off the Bosch 60 AH AGM, and I guess your assuming the DC to DC will charge ?

I would suggest doing it off a cheaper battery, because you will destroy your $200 battery, and the DC to DC .