Have LEAF -- want RAV4 EV

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Had a 2011 Leaf with 39k miles on it with 31% degradation down to 44 miles on the GOM and about 12 GiDs left after my 40 mile commute. I was able to charge at work to make it home each day but after missing a charge session due to an extended meeting I decided it was time to trade in the Leaf. I'd often have to head to a quick charger to make any trips.

Nissan wouldn't consider a warranty replacement due to not dropping the 4th bar but I could no longer make it to work with the temperature starting to drop and not being able to run defrost or heat.

I traded for a 2013 Rav4 EV with 65k miles. Haven't had a chance to run the GOM reset but it shows 101 on the GOM after 110v charge over the weekend. What I am wondering do I have to unplug and then plug back in without driving for it to top off and rebalance then remove negative battery terminal?

I ask because after each charge when I unplug and start car its says it still needs .5-2 hours on 240v or 4-6 hours with 110v. I set it to extended charge with no delay.

I'm hoping its only a 11% loss on the pack due to the current GOM stats. I did get a 3 year warranty included in the deal. I paid $17.6k for RAV4 with warranty included and got $4.8k for the Leaf. I was happy with the deal.
 
co2112 said:
I traded for a 2013 Rav4 EV with 65k miles. Haven't had a chance to run the GOM reset but it shows 101 on the GOM after 110v charge over the weekend. What I am wondering do I have to unplug and then plug back in without driving for it to top off and rebalance then remove negative battery terminal? ...I'm hoping its only a 11% loss on the pack due to the current GOM stats.

Congrats on your new-to-you RAV4 EV. Just hit the "Extended" charge button that pops up on the center navigation screen at shutdown. It seems it didn't do a complete extended charge (I have no idea why). Also, press "Charge Immediately" if appropriate.

The GOM isn't telling you anything useful with regard to degradation without a reset. Your battery could be brand new, or 50% degraded. Either way could display 101 on the GOM.


*********


RAV4 EV battery default "Rated Range":


Make sure that the battery is at room temperature, then:

1) Fully charge vehicle using "Extended" with the J1772 port (not CHAdeMO)

2) Battery must be near room temperature

3) The cabin climate control will automatically go to OFF with battery disconnect

4) Disconnect the 12 volt battery negative cables, and leave it that way overnight. The battery must remain at or above room temperature overnight for this test to be valid.


***** Next day: ******


5) Reconnect 12 volt battery

6) Hold foot on brake and press START button with key fob nearby just once

7) Energy "fuel" gauge will show Full (16 illuminated segments) and "LO" on the GOM

8) Wait for navigation unit to complete its start up (about 20 seconds)

9) Press START with brake pedal depressed a second time. You will hear a clunk of the main battery contactors and the dash should indicate "READY".

10) The displayed range is "RATED RANGE" at 3.5 miles per kWh

11) Divide this Rated Range by 146 to get usable battery capacity compared to new.

Example: 142 rated range / 146 = 97.2% battery capacity from new


********


Additional driving test:


If you drive the RAV4 EV at my standard test speed of 100km / 62mph ground speed, it will go almost EXACTLY the rated range.

TEST DRIVING PROTOCOL - dry, hard surface level road with no wind or cabin climate control with new condition battery at 70F, no elevation changes, "out-and-back" or loop course to compensate for any wind, 62mph / 100km/h GROUND speed as measured by GPS.

So, if the car is new, it will bang out 146 miles and the rated range will be 146 under the prescribed conditions.

If the rated range is 135, it will go 135 miles.


********


What is lost and needs to be reset with a 12 volt disconnect:

http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20859#p20859

1) Cabin climate control is Off. Make appropriate settings.

2) Stored radio / SiriusXM stations will remain, however your last station listened to will likely be gone

3) Cell phone pairings are not 100%. You may have to delete your phone (and the RAV4 from your phone) and re-pair them

4) Map display mode

5) Volume of navigation voice notifications

6) Random play modes

7) Charge schedule will be retained, but it won't work without hitting the "SAVE" button on the previous screen. Check the programmed settings first, then go back to the previous page to press Save. It won't save the data any other way.

8) State selection from Destination address page
 
co2112 said:
Had a 2011 Leaf with 39k miles on it with 31% degradation down to 44 miles on the GOM and about 12 GiDs left after my 40 mile commute. I was able to charge at work to make it home each day but after missing a charge session due to an extended meeting I decided it was time to trade in the Leaf. I'd often have to head to a quick charger to make any trips.

Nissan wouldn't consider a warranty replacement due to not dropping the 4th bar but I could no longer make it to work with the temperature starting to drop and not being able to run defrost or heat.

I traded for a 2013 Rav4 EV with 65k miles. Haven't had a chance to run the GOM reset but it shows 101 on the GOM after 110v charge over the weekend. What I am wondering do I have to unplug and then plug back in without driving for it to top off and rebalance then remove negative battery terminal?

I ask because after each charge when I unplug and start car its says it still needs .5-2 hours on 240v or 4-6 hours with 110v. I set it to extended charge with no delay.

I'm hoping its only a 11% loss on the pack due to the current GOM stats. I did get a 3 year warranty included in the deal. I paid $17.6k for RAV4 with warranty included and got $4.8k for the Leaf. I was happy with the deal.

I tried to purchase one of the last new RAV4 EV's but the Toyota dealer had no interest in my Leaf. On the other hand, Mercedes was desperate and gave me a really good deal.
 
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