ALL POSTS - GOM - Range Meter - Distance To Empty meter

[smkettner]

Slow down and turn off the climate control. Similar temps here. I just drove mine today 90 miles using cruise set at 62. Range was showing 119 at the start (100%) and 44 at the end. 38k on the car.

Meter showed much worse a few days ago after driving back from San Clemente at 70+ blasting the heater.

 

[Tech26]

It's almost definitely related to the cold weather. I'm surprised the Toyota dealership didn't mention that as the most likely cause for the lower indicated range. Running the cabin heater more often really saps the HV battery and after a few trips the range indicator starts taking your lower energy efficiency into account.

You'll see the range indicator return to normal when the weather warms back up.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Hello,

I looked but could not find any subjects on the following issue. If there is another thread, please let me know and I will move.

Currently if I charge to 100%, (not extended range), my range is 88miles. About 2-3 months ago, that number was over 98miles.

Cold weather makes the seasonal decrease and increase in the "Guess-O-Meter" (GOM).

If you want to reset the GOM, follow this procedure:

http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20518#p20518

 

[evdrive]

In addition to the car being less efficient in the cold weather and occasional heater use sucking up range, I find using the wipers at full power uses a lot of power and taps the potential range.

I've found driving in the cold, with the heater, using the wipers and headlights can easily reduce my expected range by 30%.

 

[jgblair]

I've found driving in the cold, with the heater, using the wipers and headlights can easily reduce my expected range by 30%.

I am about to leave on a 1,000 mile round trip from NorCal to SoCal and back again. Does anyone else have experience with driving in wet rainy weather and cold (low 40's) weather along with suggestions? I will be going down Highway 101 and there aren't a lot of charging choices in spots. I spend the night in Paso Robles, which helps with the longest stretch. 30% is a big hit on range. Obviously I will minimize using the heater if I can, but with two German Shepherds, I will likely have to use the defrost at least, even if on cool.

John

 

[TonyWilliams]

If you are overnighting in Paso Robles, then the only stretch you need to worry about is the 100 miles from Salinas.

If you want the heater on, I'd fully charge in Salinas and drive 55mph. When you get to King City, make an educated guess on whether you need to stop off for an hour on a j1772.

Make sure the odometer and consumption meters are zero'd out in Salinas. Hit the "Update" button, too, on the consumption page. Use the "map mode" split screen so you can watch that miles per kWh the whole time.

I always assume that these batteries have at least 10% degradation, so even with a full charge, you have about 37kWh to play with. The battery will be nice and warm after a charge.

Turn on the cabin heater to get everything warmed up while charging, even if you don't use much heat while driving.

The number you are looking for is 3.1 miles per kWh or higher:

37kWh * 3.1 = 115 miles of range, leaving 15 miles to spare. You should be able to get that even with the heater on at 55mph. If you don't have 3.1 or greater by King City, stop and charge.

 

[jgblair]

Thanks Tony!

John

 

[evdrive]

When I did this drive last summer, I drove 30mph on a few roads that parallel the highway for 10 miles to make sure I made it though the 100 mile quick charging dead zone.

 

[swogee]

I frequently make the trip between SLO and the SF Bay Area so I am familiar with that stretch. Last time I drove back home after X-mas it was in the low 40's/high 30's and I kept it around 50 mph to ensure I would make the gap. I stopped to charge at the Paso Inn in Paso Robles (got some dessert there) for about an hour on the way home to make sure I would make it over Cuesta Grade into SLO. The Clipper Creek HCS-60 EVSE there can supply up to 48 amps. I think I might have been able to make it home without stopping but it would have been very close so I didn't want to take a chance. I believe that my avg efficiency was about 3.2 miles/kWh but I don't recall for sure. I didn't get bothered by any law enforcement (Sheriff Deputies) while going 50 mph.

On a side note, there soon may be a resolution to the gap problem. The governor of CA has mandated that CALTRANS install EV charging stations at our facilities to help promote the use of the EV's. Two locations that are in design are the Camp Roberts rest stops on 101 NB and SB and the rest stop in Shandon on 46 East. The design currently calls for two L2 EVSE's and two L3 50 kW DC fast chargers. AFAIK, they will be free of charge. (This is due to a federal mandate placing restrictions on charging for services at federally funded rest stops.) I am pushing for larger L2 EVSE's (80A/19.2kW) to future proof the installs. I would push for larger L3 units (100kW) as well but there are no EV's except maybe the Kia Soul that can use them. There are other D5 locations as well (King City maintenance station and various Park and Rides), but the two above are on the fast track and may be in construction by later this year. Please note this info is UNOFFICIAL and subject to change as the projects evolve.

 

[jgblair]

On a side note, there soon may be a resolution to the gap problem. The governor of CA has mandated that CALTRANS install EV charging stations at our facilities to help promote the use of the EV's.

That is good news. I would suggest that they not be free to use, but be part of a paid network like EVgo. That will help to keep such an important and limited resource available for those who really need it. I know in earlier days of EV's, if I saw a free charger, I would use it even if I didn't really need it. Also if they won't go for a larger L3 unit, at least set up the infrastructure like conduit and wiring for larger units. It will not raise the cost that much but will make upgrading cheaper. Can't Tesla's charge at a higher rate (120kW)? With their current CHAdeMO adapter I believe it is limited to around 45 kW. Someone else like Tony probably knows better than I do.

Thanks for the update.

John

 

[TonyWilliams]

The Tesla chargers operate at "145kW", which translates to about 120kW maximum in a car.

The same is true of a "50kW" charger that operates at a maximum of about 45kW in the RAV4.

 

[mastronio]

My GOM has lost its mind as well. A month ago a "full" charge showed 102 miles, but the past two weeks it has topped out at 67 miles :| Right this minute my battery indicator is at 3/4 full, but range states 45 miles remaining.

I guess it's been cold here, if you're a big baby. Oakland, upper 40s - mid 50s. GOM seems a bit dramatic.

 

[eplantz]

Welcome to the club. My RAV4 now shows 67 miles after a full extended charge. But, it has been cold here 5F-25F daily.

Even in warmer weather it has not been great. Only about 23K miles (3.5 years) but lots of relatively short trips.

Still works for me but that is a pretty low number.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Still works for me but that is a pretty low number.

Maybe cover up the number? You'll never know the difference.

 

[The_war_Is_On_2017]

When I purchased my 2012 Rav EV, a full charge was 119 miles. It seemed to almost immediately NOT refill to that even after a full charge. It would consistently drop. The 1st charge after was 112, then 107, then 95, etc.

When I would bring it in for service, somehow, it was back to top level. But the pattern would repeat.

Now, it's getting even worse. I just did a "full charge" and the range says 70 miles. It's consistently in the 70-80 range.

Is my battery just losing range? Is driving range accurate? Is there anyway to fix this?

 

[Tadol]

You are talking about the GOM - the guess-o-meter - it only tells you via the number of bars how much charge you have. The range is an estimate based on your driving habits, so if you leadfoot it around town for a few weeks, you may see it drop down into the 60s. Go out freeway driving and staying light on the pedal for the next few, it may go up to 110. Regardless, the amount of juice in your battery at any point is the same, reflected by the numbers of bars you have lit. The reason it jumps after a trip to the dealer is they will disconnect the battery, and all driving history or memory is lost, and so it jumps up to what the system considers the max - and yes, its all downhill from there -

 

[user 340]

Is my battery just losing range? Is driving range accurate?

Your battery stores charge, not driving range. Every time you drive and then turn off your car, the dash display shows how far you drove and how many miles/kW hr you maintained. The 2 together give you kW hr, the amount of energy you used. Add up the total kW hr you use during a full charge, over multiple drives if needed, until the battery is depleted. Is should be around 40 for an extended charge.

As was said in the other thread where you posted, the GOM gives an estimated range based on your driving style. Resetting it (via disconnecting & reconnecting your 12V battery) forces it to go back to the ROM default of 3.5 mi/ kW hr. Many people find that they drive at a lower efficiency than that, hence the lower GOM readings.

 

[smkettner]

I have noticed when charging daily on a regular basis the range will get lower for 7 to 10 days and then pop back up again.

Cold weather does reduce capacity of any battery so winter is lower. Use of the heater averages in and further reduces range. And probably a small amount of capacity loss would be expected.
So take it for an 80 mile cruise and see how it actually performs. Set the cruise at 60 and turn off the heat.

Otherwise your indicated range will pretty much come back when it warms up and you stop using the heat. OK to drive a bit slower too.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Is my battery just losing range? Is driving range accurate? Is there anyway to fix this?

You can "fix it" every day, if you like:


1) MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OFF !!! Do not plug the car in.

2) Disconnect all 3 of the 12 volt battery negative cables, and leave it that way overnight. This will require a 12mm socket or wrench to remove the M8 hex nut. The cabin climate control will automatically go to OFF with battery disconnect.


***** Next day: ******


3) Reconnect 12 volt battery

4) Hold foot on brake and press START button with key fob nearby just once

5) Energy "fuel" gauge will show Full (16 illuminated segments) and "LO" on the GOM

6) Wait for navigation unit to complete its start up (about 20 seconds)

7) Press START with brake pedal depressed a second time. You will hear a clunk of the main battery contactors under the front passenger seat and the dash should indicate "READY".

Your Guess-O-Meter is reset.

 

[714autonut]

I am a new owner of a 2014 Rav 4 EV that just came off of lease from So. Coast Toyota. Still have the 120vac charge cord waiting for the new Leviton's to come off production. My first charges at 120vac gave 80 miles on regular and 100 miles on extended. Immediately following my 30k service checks those ranges went significantly up to 100 and 115 miles respectively still at 120vac. Does anyone know if there has been a software update recently or if I may be cooking my batteries since the service visit? I am also wondering if I really should always shoot for charging at the highest 40A rate or give the batteries a slower charge once in a while to prolong their useful life? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.