152k miles...no replacements ever made

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aeonlive

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2024
Messages
3
Location
SW Florida
Reading through here I feel like I really got the pic of the bunch. I only drive in Florida. I picked this up in 2020 with $45,000 on it for $12,000. Now it has 152,000 mi on it. It's our only car and it's been the most fun thing I own. Our range is around 80 right now. Sometimes 60. Who can tell what controls it all. I think it's basically estimating based on how long I sit in my car because my job consists of being local and visiting local businesses. We reduce the charge to 20 volts from 40 in the chargepoint app and that keeps our electricity really down a lot.

I haven't done any maintenance or had any weird effects. The motor always has had a little bit of a whine to it. But it doesn't seem to affect performance.

I'm reading here a lot about common problems and how to prevent Major breakdown but I have an attempted anything so if any of you are reading this and I have advice on maintenance I really should perform before things crap out... I have flagged this post for notifications.

Funny story.... Our Prius died at 250,000 mi and I was looking around the lot where we took it in to be traded in and this RAV4 was sitting there and the guy was showing me everything around it but not that one. And I'm like let me try... you know what is that?? I was immediately infatuated and undismayed by the range. Here in Florida it's flat and it's always mild weather so I think the battery has just outdone itself I can't believe my luck.

You think they're rare in California and the West Coast you should try driving when around Florida cuz nobody's even heard of it.

All the best.

Charlie

PS the moon white paint job that was peeling was repainted by Toyota for free last year. It's insane this thing looks brand new still operates like I bought it yesterday. What a blessing!

Pps where do you find the number of your model I see people putting a four digit number after their car. where do I find that?
 
it’s the last four of the VIN.

Also, reducing amps from 40 will make it slightly easier on your battery chemistry and longevity although maybe not noticeable if the battery is degraded significantly. But it shouldn’t make a difference in your electric bill unless they charge by time or peak demand. In that case better to crank back up to 40 and charge at the off peak rate times. It’ll maybe save a few bucks a month and won’t change much on the battery health.
 
Yeah we don't have peak or non peak hours here. And I'm pretty sure a 20 volt charge will be cheaper than 40 but I'm not an electrician. I'm just looking at my bill.
 
When talking about charging we would be in the measurement of AMPS not necessarily volts. When charging your battery, whether it be at 20 amps or 40. There will be no change in your electric bill as there is no change in the total amount of energy your battery can store (KWH). So how quickly you get to a full charge isn’t going to cost more or less. Let’s say your battery pack holds 35 KWHs of energy. Your electrical meter on your house will only see the power consumption of that to completely charge up your pack to 35KWH, whether it takes 6 hours or 12, the total power consumption (therefor bill) will be the same. Hope that makes sense.
 
Wow. So it's just like a water bill. Doesn't matter how far you open the faucet. The decrease in my electric bill was then due to other factors.

I seem also to get more driving range with a slower charge.

Might as well ask: I read its advisable to get the battery down to zero and slow charge it from time to time? Don't the electrons pack tighter when you do that? Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread with this question, I'm to lazy to ask it somewhere else and you were good at explaining things even when the question itself is flawed 😅🪷
 
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