12V battery replacements

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eschatfische

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
141
Location
San Francisco, CA
So, it seems like a tremendous amount of trouble people have with the car - whether dying after being parked for a week, or with Check EV System messages - stem from the anemic 12V battery the car has. While I've yet to have trouble with the car related to the battery, the "health check" at our 20,000 mile service showed our 2012's battery at 40% health. That's it?

Has anyone replaced the 12V in their RAV4 EV, and what out there is the best (read: highest capacity, longest lasting) 12V battery in the size the RAV takes? I might want to do this in advance before the factory battery bites me.
 
Sorry I can't answer your question about replacement, but I would hazard to guess that anything your dealer did to assess the "health" of your 12V battery is based on age or mileage and has little correlation to its actual capacity.
 
I have been thinking about this as well because I've heard from a mechanic that the typical oem Toyota 12v battery last around three years.
 
I'm interested as well. Would a deep discharge battery work better since there is no high current need? I use 6V AGMs for my solar. I may try a 12V AGM if I can get it to fit, but that may be over kill.
 
A friend of mine who is a battery expert explained to me that the reason flooded lead acid batteries fail prematurely is the lead sulphates formed on the plates during charge/discharge cycling drop to the bottom and short out the plates of the battery. Sometimes you can resurrect the battery temporarily by shaking it after failure to redistribute the paste on the bottom.

A suggested better lead-acid replacement is one with spiral wound plates, so the sulfates cannot drop off and short it out. The one I'm planning to use is the Optima Yellow Top size D35. I have already replaced the battery with the Optima (different size, though) in my Leaf, and have been very happy with it, and am planning the same in the Rav4 EV.
 
Most 12V issues are user related to only have the car on the 12V and cycling it often or deep damaging discharges. I have had not 12V issues on any Ev ever with many years of operation. Those that do often abuse the battery unknowingly.
 
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+-+Automotive/C0423/C0005.oap?model=RAV4&vi=1503725&year=2012&make=Toyota

Optima Red Top

3 Year Limited Warranty
Automotive Battery
720 CCA
910 CA
90 Minutes Reserve Capacity
Requires Bottom Height Adapter, Check Hood Clearance

Group Size (BCI): 35

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 720 CCA
Cranking Amps (CA): 910 CA
Reserve Capacity (min): 90 Minute
Voltage (V): 12 Volt
Length (In): 9-5/16 Inch
Width (In): 6-13/16 Inch
Height (In): 7-5/8 Inch
Weight (Lbs): 31.70 Lbs.
Terminal Type: Top Post
Quantity Per Vehicle: 1
 
RavEnVy said:
A friend of mine who is a battery expert explained to me that the reason flooded lead acid batteries fail prematurely is the lead sulphates formed on the plates during charge/discharge cycling drop to the bottom and short out the plates of the battery. Sometimes you can resurrect the battery temporarily by shaking it after failure to redistribute the paste on the bottom.
Interesting... what you describe at the beginning makes sense w/a 12 volt "jump pack" (some unknown lead-acid battery type) I have that now seems to have gone bad. It never seems to finish charging but the bottom of the unit now gets quite warm, when charging.

And, even when not even plugged in, if I push its test button, the only light that comes on is the one claiming it's "charging".

Shorts could explain the above....
 
I'm planning to replace mine with capacitors, and small L-ion pack.
These are the same capacitors that I'm using, and they start my SAAB 2.3 turbo better than the 750 amp battery that is in it ...
Right now I've been experimenting with 8 x 18650 cells (4 in series, and 2 in parallel - about 5 AH capacity) that I have salvaged out of bad laptop packs ..
I will at some point test to see exactly how many I need to have no issues for about 2 weeks of off time . (16 of them should be enough, I'm guessing)

Why ? - because all together, the capacitor pack only weights in at less than 4 pounds vs 42 pounds.
I can also charge it via any 12 volt power supply, or a small 1 amp solar panel, and still get theoretically over 1000 amps out of it. (it charges to 12 volts from 1 volt in less than 3 minutes)
It will outlast the life 10 cars, as long as it is not over charged ...

Were I got the idea:
http://laserhacker.com/?cat=6

Were I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultracapacitor-Module-KIT-Battery-Eliminator-Car-Audio-Starting-Remote-Solar/301128832966?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25879%26meid%3D76d2449962934522adb7c51f0bf00698%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D10819%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D301015504220
 
TonyWilliams said:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+-+Automotive/C0423/C0005.oap?model=RAV4&vi=1503725&year=2012&make=Toyota

Optima Red Top
Why a starting battery? I recommend light grey case Blue or Yellow top if choosing Optima.
 
my toyota battery failed shortly after i got my car. I went to Tractor Supply and got a replacement and i've never had a problem since (even though i've had the car not running for 2 weeks at a time which is what killed the original battery). I think the original battery just might have been weak to start with.
 
n3ckf said:
my toyota battery failed shortly after i got my car. I went to Tractor Supply and got a replacement and i've never had a problem since (even though i've had the car not running for 2 weeks at a time which is what killed the original battery). I think the original battery just might have been weak to start with.
A small solar panel like the leaf has on the rear spoiler would be nice to keep the battery in a charged state. only when parked in the sun of course.
In my ICE truck (that I hardly use atm) I have a 5 watt panel on the dashboard that plugs in my cigarette lighter to keep the battery leveled off.
 
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