Recent content by ph2

Removing the battery will give you a bit more room to navigate under the hood, but removing the positive or negative side will do the trick. Make sure it won’t slip back towards the post. Then remove the HV disconnect under the passenger seat as a safety. The TSB will walk you through the test...

Do you know if he limited the use of ceramics to the motor or also replaced the pinion bearings with ceramics?

I can only guess that is the date the seal was installed; the date pictured in mine matches the date of manufacture for the drive unit… which makes me wonder if the seal was thought to be an issue worth tracking that early. Otherwise it could just be used as a reference in the manufacturing...

Probably worth more in parts…

They aren’t terribly difficult to access under the hood and can be bought used for less than $100 if you’re up to doing the task yourself.

Hi All, still working on it… didn’t start looking until yesterday. Very similar to the Leaf heater in the photos above but a few differences. Instead of the PCB for the connection to the heat elements it uses a stamped silver sheet with teeth. Notice the green rubber piece filler… bet that is...

Water-cooled yes… completely sealed not exactly. Like most ‘enclosed’ systems on a vehicle they are rated against ingress but are vented. I had suspected the small button on top of the heater was such a vent, but disassembled today to confirm. Upon opening, I can confirm with 100% certainty...

Thanks for the note… didn’t have the displeasure of needing to open up the dc converter this time around. If that’s the case then there should be no concern over the extra 300 watts burning the fuses. I did notice the smell of burning electronics (or a bad cigar) a few times leading up to the...

First step is always disconnect the 12v battery, wait for the 12v side to discharge and then remove the HV battery disconnect under the passenger seat before working on the HV side. I took the jdemo junction box off (12 screws and 2 connectors on right side), folded to the left and then removed...

The vehicle doesn’t so much care about the increased heater load itself… the only thing that may be an issue is the slight increase in current over stock for the 6.3kW heater. Can't say for sure, but I posit that the DC converter pulls back the load by changing the duty cycle of the heater...

The wire that I cut shorter on the right (with the positive red probe) and the longer wire contacted by the negative probe, results in the resistance just over 215k ohms. If reversed, there was no continuity. I marked the wires to match that of the probes with 215k ohms. The same 215k ohms for...

One other note, with car in ACC mode, cabin temp set to high and not charging, the cabin heater pump will run without the heater being powered and purge most of the air. Not a good idea to start the heater up with no water in it, even for just a few seconds. After a minute or two, run like normal.

Good Evening All! The heater on my Rav died a couple of weeks ago on the way to work. Found one on Ebay that came from a Ford Focus. All of the connectors are different but the wiring is the same. The heater failed open so it didn't take the fuses with it, thankfully! A working heater has...

Yes, but mine shows 158F and hasn’t changed in differing conditions.

At the time, everything was still factory (except Jdemo) and without TPDS, my method of changing coolant was with two buckets and let the pump do the work. No air in system at all. One other thing now that I have TPDS and CAN data, I noticed that the reported active cooling setpoint on the...