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Removing the battery will give you a bit more room to navigate under the hood, but removing the positive or negative side will do the trick. Make sure it won’t slip back towards the post. Then remove the HV disconnect under the passenger seat as a safety. The TSB will walk you through the test...

Do you know if he limited the use of ceramics to the motor or also replaced the pinion bearings with ceramics?

I can only guess that is the date the seal was installed; the date pictured in mine matches the date of manufacture for the drive unit… which makes me wonder if the seal was thought to be an issue worth tracking that early. Otherwise it could just be used as a reference in the manufacturing...

Probably worth more in parts…

They aren’t terribly difficult to access under the hood and can be bought used for less than $100 if you’re up to doing the task yourself.

Hi All, still working on it… didn’t start looking until yesterday. Very similar to the Leaf heater in the photos above but a few differences. Instead of the PCB for the connection to the heat elements it uses a stamped silver sheet with teeth. Notice the green rubber piece filler… bet that is...

Water-cooled yes… completely sealed not exactly. Like most ‘enclosed’ systems on a vehicle they are rated against ingress but are vented. I had suspected the small button on top of the heater was such a vent, but disassembled today to confirm. Upon opening, I can confirm with 100% certainty...

Thanks for the note… didn’t have the displeasure of needing to open up the dc converter this time around. If that’s the case then there should be no concern over the extra 300 watts burning the fuses. I did notice the smell of burning electronics (or a bad cigar) a few times leading up to the...

First step is always disconnect the 12v battery, wait for the 12v side to discharge and then remove the HV battery disconnect under the passenger seat before working on the HV side. I took the jdemo junction box off (12 screws and 2 connectors on right side), folded to the left and then removed...

The vehicle doesn’t so much care about the increased heater load itself… the only thing that may be an issue is the slight increase in current over stock for the 6.3kW heater. Can't say for sure, but I posit that the DC converter pulls back the load by changing the duty cycle of the heater...

The wire that I cut shorter on the right (with the positive red probe) and the longer wire contacted by the negative probe, results in the resistance just over 215k ohms. If reversed, there was no continuity. I marked the wires to match that of the probes with 215k ohms. The same 215k ohms for...

One other note, with car in ACC mode, cabin temp set to high and not charging, the cabin heater pump will run without the heater being powered and purge most of the air. Not a good idea to start the heater up with no water in it, even for just a few seconds. After a minute or two, run like normal.

Good Evening All! The heater on my Rav died a couple of weeks ago on the way to work. Found one on Ebay that came from a Ford Focus. All of the connectors are different but the wiring is the same. The heater failed open so it didn't take the fuses with it, thankfully! A working heater has...

Yes, but mine shows 158F and hasn’t changed in differing conditions.

At the time, everything was still factory (except Jdemo) and without TPDS, my method of changing coolant was with two buckets and let the pump do the work. No air in system at all. One other thing now that I have TPDS and CAN data, I noticed that the reported active cooling setpoint on the...

Hi all, dead thread but wanted to follow up with what I found now with Tesla diagnostics setup. The chiller was in fact not working. I had observed this years ago but not being able to easily test, it was hard to know with certainty. I was measuring battery coolant temps >110F when charging...

Thanks for the info and good to know… it would have been nice to have found a concise walkthrough. The scanmyT3sla app uses a different pinout for OBD2 dongles. Hopefully the info might make it a little more straightforward for someone in the future.

Few pictures from my rebuild... bearings were in bad shape, Aegis ring can be seen (doesn't do so well with rotor shaft current grounding as was apparent when checking out the pinion bearings.) Decent amount of ATF throughout; not much coolant but did find droplets on speed sensor. One note I...

Already having an OBDlink MX+ laying around for other vehicles, I thought I might try my hand at getting it to work with the Tesla diagnostic port in the rear of our vehicles. Although not as clean of an interface as miimura's work with OVMS here, I did manage to connect to the Tesla CANbus...

Still have mine... onboard charger has been down for a year and finally had the time to remove and replace the fuses over the holiday weekend. >114k miles and counting. Battery is out of balance but looks like it will get to about 31kWh once it has time to work itself out. >46MWh discharged...