Another DOA Rav, time to troubleshoot- seems OBC fuses are fine ;-(

[asavage]

. . . now I'm getting the Check ABS (C1345) on the screen . . .

Please read Doug's tale about his C1345. Techstream fixed it, but follow the directions carefully!

Battery charger on the battery during the procedure. Don't assume.

 

[alflash]

I found the pyro fuse behind the main screen, etc and pulled it, checked it and its fine.. plugged it back in.. but now I'm getting the Check ABS (C1345) on the screen (that's new!! never had or seen that ever in its life since I've owned the car from the dealer lot) .. and I can't reset it with TechStream?? guess there's a way to reset it with the pin 4 to 14 trick and 5 to 8 pumps on the brake??

I'll have to try that later this afternoon... otherwise I'm about done with this car and throwing in the towel...

Warning/attention.
Sir, pin 14 of the DLC3* diagnostic connector is one of the two CAN bus pins!
DTC C1345/66 Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning Undone.
To perform the initialization and calibration function of the linear solenoid valve (when not using the Techstream), you must use pins 4 and 12 of DLC3*.

*https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/obd2_0290.jpg

Are you using the official Techstream** version or the Chinese broken version?
**Let me know if activation is required.

 

[JasonA]

Thanks Vlad, it was a fat finger / type on my part but yeah, i meant to say pin 12..

But I was going by this thread recently and you posted pin 13....
https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/co...-anti-skid-warning-lights-on.2611/#post-30716

 

[JasonA]

https://www.rav4world.com/threads/s...tor-light-and-brake-light-alternating.317914/

I've tried a million different combos under the sun (literally here in SoCal) and everything I could find on resetting ABS, etc.. and nothing seems to work..

What's dumb is the C1345 doesn't want to clear, but any combo of pin 4 to 12 (or13) which does different things... will not clear no matter what the steps. If 4 to 13 is in, there's no ABS since its 'reset' mode but as soon as the jumper is pulled... the ABS error comes up.. which is dumb.

No combo, or pressing of brake peddle does anything like it shows in the million/zillion other youtube vids which makes me hate this frakenvehicle even more. Even my buddy said..

""well, its a Lexus infotaiment system, with a prius looking shifter, stuck in a Rav body.... with halfa$$ Tesla and some other stuff""

I'm running TechStream v17 which is fully patched, etc.. and I've gone through the steps (with 14.4v on the car) and it still comes up with ABS... dunno..

Stupid me for wanted to find that pyro fuse to check... ugh

 

[alflash]

Thanks Vlad, it was a fat finger / type on my part but yeah, i meant to say pin 12..

But I was going by this thread recently and you posted pin 13....
https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/co...-anti-skid-warning-lights-on.2611/#post-30716
...

Pin 13 of DLC3 is used to read and erase fault codes.
But if the calibration is not completed (“failed”), the code will be saved again

 

[alflash]

The calibration procedure is completed in two stages/steps.
When not Using the Techstream (The Quote from https://techinfo.toyota.com/)
NOTICE:

• While obtaining the zero point, keep the vehicle stationary and do not vibrate, tilt, move, or shake it.
• Be sure to perform this procedure on a level surface (with an inclination of less than 1 degree).

(a) Clear the zero point calibration data.
(1) Turn the power switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.
(3) Check that park (P) is selected.
(4) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(5) Using SST, connect and disconnect terminals TS and CG of the DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds.
SST: OEM Part o. 09843-18040 (or paper clip - add. alflash).
(6) Check that no codes other than ABS code 42, VSC code 45 and electronically controlled brake system code 48, 66, or 95 are stored in the diagnostic system.
NOTICE:

• If the power switch is turned on (IG) for more than 15 seconds with park (P) is selected after the zero point of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor has been cleared, only the zero point of the yaw rate sensor will be stored.
• If the vehicle is driven under these conditions, the skid control ECU (brake booster with master cylinder assembly) will store the zero point calibration for the acceleration sensor as not being completed.
• The skid control ECU (brake booster with master cylinder assembly) will then also indicate this as a malfunction of the VSC system using the indicator light.

(7)Turn the power switch off.

(b) Perform the zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor.
(1) Turn the power switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.(3) Check that park (P) is selected.
NOTICE:

• DTCs 36 (Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate Sensor Undone) and 98 (Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone) will be recorded if park (P) is not selected.

4) Using SST, connect terminals TS and CG of the DLC3.
(5) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(6) After Test Mode has been entered, keep the vehicle stationary on a level surface for 3seconds or more.
(7) Check that the ABS warning, brake warning / yellow (minor malfunction) and slip indicator lights come on for several seconds and then blinks in Test Mode pattern (0.125 seconds on and 0.125 seconds off).
HINT:

• If the ABS warning, brake warning / yellow (minor malfunction) and slip indicator lights do not blink, perform zero point calibration again.
• The zero point calibration is performed only once after the system enters Test Mode.
• Calibration cannot be performed again until the stored data is cleared.

(8) Turn the power switch off and disconnect SST from the DLC3.

... If necessary, and with the help of free AnyDesk software, we can look at your vehicle's Tesla* system with "four eyes".
...

* And the Toyota system is similar using original (not hacked) Techstream v.18.00.008 (https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...chinfo/html/prelogin/tsrss/ts_known_bugs.html)
Or, if you prefer, with GTS+

 

[asavage]

As Vlad stated, and I covered in Doug's thread, C1345 isn't a DTC that can be "manually cleared"; it must satisfactorily complete the calibration procedure in order to clear. That means the entire brake system has to be in working condition, and the controls left alone while it does its two-minute dance.

 

[JasonA]

going to try this abit later and let you guys know. I'm pretty sure I've ""gone" through these steps ... but big thanks to Vlad for the very detailed steps.. I might have missed something.

never ever pull the pyro...
never..

 

[alflash]

going to try this abit later and let you guys know. I'm pretty sure I've ""gone" through these steps ... but big thanks to Vlad for the very detailed steps.. I might have missed something.

never ever pull the pyro...
never...

Mr. JasonA, I'm sorry. Unfortunately, I posted a not entirely relevant and incomplete description.
Please take a look at this description*
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/ini_cal_valve.pdf

It is possible that all preconditions for testing were not met when checking that fuse.
HTH,

* Resource.

https://alflash.com.ua//2024/tis_sub2024.png

 

[ce2078]

Matt with Hybrid ReVolt. Hopefully this is acceptable to post here. If the drive unit has an iso fault, we can fix it (we do the Tesla LDU).

 

[asavage]

Matt with Hybrid ReVolt. Hopefully this is acceptable to post here. If the drive unit has an iso fault, we can fix it (we do the Tesla LDU).

Matt, can you elaborate on the service ReVolt provides to restore proper isolation resistance to the LDU? Or point me to a resource that describes your service?

 

[ce2078]

I can't get into the specifics, but we found a solution that dissolves the crystallized coolant without affecting the stator potting material nor the wiring insulation. Our method takes a stator with iso under 200k ohm and gets it to 40M ohm or higher (typical lately is 80 to 120 megaohm). We also replace the ceramic bearings, coolant seal, and perform the weep hole we have posted elsewhere about.

 

[asavage]

Thank you for that.

Do you provide that service ala carte, ie if a customer sends you a bare stator/case (stripped), do you offer to restore its iso resistance? Or, is this service only available as part of a larger LDU refurbishment?

If you prefer to discuss this in a . . . less confrontational venue, I'm happy to call or email; please reach out to me with contact info.

 

[alflash]

It is interesting how the insulation resistance can be restored when the insulation is broken. For example, as shown at 9 seconds of this video


And the insulation resistance is less than 200 kOhm, namely zero
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/stator_res1.jpg

As far as I know, this “defect” can only be eliminated by rewinding the stator

 

[ce2078]

I hate to burst your bubble, but no one rewinds these stators. You need to cut multiple welds to get it out. You first need to remove the outer sheet that's wrapped around the inner aluminum coolant channels, only then can you cut the end off and try to press it out.

I've got hundreds of S rebuilds in the field. Our first 3 motors are all over the 3 year mark. My personal S has over 130k miles on a rebuild after having an iso issue. 2200+Mohm reported by the car while driving.




Of course the longevity comes from the weep hole we install.

 

[ce2078]

Thank you for that.

Do you provide that service ala carte, ie if a customer sends you a bare stator/case (stripped), do you offer to restore its iso resistance? Or, is this service only available as part of a larger LDU refurbishment?

If you prefer to discuss this in a . . . less confrontational venue, I'm happy to call or email; please reach out to me with contact info.

Feel free to PM me or look up Hybrid ReVolt. I just joined due to Tony's request (EVFIXME) so I cannot do PM yet.

We do whatever is needed. You can send the stator half only or the whole car. The more you send, the more we can check and fix, but obviously a stator only repair will be cheaper.

 

[asavage]

We do whatever is needed. You can send the stator half only or the whole car. The more you send, the more we can check and fix, but obviously a stator only repair will be cheaper.

Thanks. I have crossposted this info to a long-running LDU repair thread over at teslamotors.com, where a lot of discussion about weep holes, coolant delete mods, etc. have been going on. Mostly DIY folks in that thread, so the ability to ship you only the part they can't DIY is a real boon. Many folks can handle the rotor bearings replacement, and most seem to be moving away from liquid cooling the rotor (as Tesla has on its Remans), but reviving a low-iso stator has remained an obstacle.

 

[asavage]

I hate to burst your bubble, but no one rewinds these stators.

Really?
Those zany Ukranians are up to good stuff . . .



https://evclinic.eu/product/tesla-large-drive-unit-stator-tuned-re-winding/

 

[ce2078]

Really?
Those zany Ukranians are up to good stuff . . .



https://evclinic.eu/product/tesla-large-drive-unit-stator-tuned-re-winding/

Links not working for me at the moment. An epoxy coat doesn't mean rewound. Show me the welds that had to be redone. The iron core is larger than the aluminum end rings. There is no getting it out w/o cutting and rewelding quite a bit of stuff.

 

[ce2078]

Thanks. I have crossposted this info to a long-running LDU repair thread over at teslamotors.com, where a lot of discussion about weep holes, coolant delete mods, etc. have been going on. Mostly DIY folks in that thread, so the ability to ship you only the part they can't DIY is a real boon. Many folks can handle the rotor bearings replacement, and most seem to be moving away from liquid cooling the rotor (as Tesla has on its Remans), but reviving a low-iso stator has remained an obstacle.

I'm still undecided on non Tesla deletes. Tesla can definitely reprogram for heat soak. The rotors get very hot. Probably not an issue for the Rav4.