I got myself a Juicebox 60a

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I think Nick sells the pilot analyzer and emulater for a reasonable price. Worst case I can sell you a populated board. It requires a display and a backpack. Either from Chris or ADAfruit. Different chip so different programming.

[email protected]
 
fromport said:
OpenEvse has build in PSU (onboard) (100-240 volt input)
True, if you get one from the OpenEVSE store. However, OpenEVSE is really just a spec, not a product, and there are different manifestations. Mine (made by Glenn - thanks Glenn!) has a Barbouri board with an external power supply.

By the way, Glenn - just noticed from your signature that the B-class was totaled. Bummer! Hope you're ok.
 
fooljoe said:
fromport said:
OpenEvse has build in PSU (onboard) (100-240 volt input)
True, if you get one from the OpenEVSE store. However, OpenEVSE is really just a spec, not a product, and there are different manifestations. Mine (made by Glenn - thanks Glenn!) has a Barbouri board with an external power supply.

By the way, Glenn - just noticed from your signature that the B-class was totaled. Bummer! Hope you're ok.

Chris Howell definitely has built circuit boards.
 
fooljoe said:
fromport said:
OpenEvse has build in PSU (onboard) (100-240 volt input)
True, if you get one from the OpenEVSE store. However, OpenEVSE is really just a spec, not a product, and there are different manifestations. Mine (made by Glenn - thanks Glenn!) has a Barbouri board with an external power supply.

By the way, Glenn - just noticed from your signature that the B-class was totaled. Bummer! Hope you're ok.

Yeah a girl pulled out from a stop sigh and immediately went for the fast lane into my blind spot.
I really hope the car is totaled but I will not drive an uncrumpled crumple zone car. Either it gets totaled( my agent thinks it will be) or it sits for the next 14 months. I had no time to break. Mercedes had a promotion recently and there are no cars to be had. I decided to try a eGolf SEL.

 
GlennD said:
Yeah a girl pulled out from a stop sigh and immediately went for the fast lane into my blind spot.

@GlennD, Aw crap, sorry to hear bro!

Ummm.........where did you get your license plate frame? :D
 
The license plate frame was from a link here.

It looks like mine was damaged but I will be happy to send it to you. The eGolf is not Tesla powered. I just have to wait for an estimate. It is totaled or it will sit for fourteen months. I am not going to drive a repaired crumple zone car.

As I see it, the car gave up its life to protect me. I have a scratched right arm. Likely from the airbag housing, but that's it. I am not even sore. I am impressed! At least it was not a Tanaka air bag.
 
UPDATE:

I upgraded my Jucebox 60A j1772 cable to a 50A and had emotowerks do a "Kit Tuneup" and now it charges faster than 15A @240Vac....

Juicebox-Tuned.jpg
 
My poor B is totaled. The same EVSE that charged my B at 40A happily charges my eGOLF at 30A. The EVSE tells the car how much current is available and assuming it is more than the charger needs it will take what it needs and it will ignore the rest. Thus my 40A EVSE is happy to supply 30A to my eGolf. If I was building it today I might have gone with 30A parts but the car's charger sets the current assuming their is enough. Any extra is ignored.
 
thats typical. I have a 40A Leviton and ive charged a couple other EVs at 30A from it just fine. Its built into the protocol to select the correct current.

the only real place you can get into trouble is *upstream* of the EVSE. (for instance if you plug a JESLA into a 30amp circuit on one side and a Rav4 that will draw 40A on the other). As long as your circuit can handle whatever your EVSE can supply, i think you cant possibly get into trouble with J1772. Its designed to be pretty robust that way.

and sorry for your loss...
 
n3ckf said:
the only real place you can get into trouble is *upstream* of the EVSE. (for instance if you plug a JESLA into a 30amp circuit on one side and a Rav4 that will draw 40A on the other). As long as your circuit can handle whatever your EVSE can supply, i think you cant possibly get into trouble with J1772. Its designed to be pretty robust that way.



That's not correct. You used the singular example of when it would not be a problem! If you plug a JESLA into a 30 amp circuit, it will pull 24 amps (80% of the load). That's the whole idea with JESLA; you don't know need to know anything about programming, or settings, or volts or amps... just plug-and-charge:

15 amp circuit -NEMA 5-15 ......Standard Outlet... 12 amps ... adds 3-4 miles per hour charging

15 amp circuit - NEMA 6-15 ...... Air conditioners..
12 amps ... adds 6-8 miles per hour charging

20 amp circuit - NEMA 5-20 ...... Motel A/C .......... 16 amps ... adds 4-6 miles per hour charging

30 amp circuit - NEMA 10-30......Older Dryers........ 24 amps (discontinued, we can make an adapter for NEMA 14-30) ... adds 15-20 miles per hour charging

30 amp circuit - NEMA 14-30......Newer Dryers...... 24 amps... adds 15-20 miles per hour charging

50 amp circuit - NEMA 14-50......RV Parks ............ 40 amps ... adds 25-30 miles per hour charging
 
you're right if you actually have the correct outlet adapter for your Jesla for a 30amp circuit.

However since you cant buy the 30amp adapter anymore from Tesla that goes with the Jesla, a lot of people make an adapter that lets you use a higher capacity plug (which you do get with a Jesla) on a dryer circuit (in particular), which is only 30amps. (I have a couple of those which i use with a different EVSE which is adjustable). I've never been able to find an *actual* Tesla 30amp circuit adapter since i got my Jesla so i only use it when visiting RV parks (which have 50amp plugs) or very occasionally as a 115volt charger since its smaller than the one that came with the car so i leave that one at home.

If you do that, then the Jesla is "fooled" into thinking it has a higher capacity circuit and either a real Tesla or a Rav4 will draw 40amps and blow the breaker.
(because the Jesla is "programmed" by the little plug adapter you install to "know" what voltage & current is available upstream from it).

So if you're going to make an adapter, *either* make one that is to a current/voltage combination that is < 30 amps that you have a Jesla plug for or dont use a dryer (30A) circuit.
 
They brought back the 14-30 (new dryer) recently and I was able to buy a 10-30 (old dryer) on eBay a month or so ago. I am using the 10-30 adapter at my parent's house right now. Here is the 14-30 that is available now:

http://shop.teslamotors.com/collections/model-s-charging-adapters/products/nema-14-30

You could get a 14-30 and make (or have made) an adapter for 10-30 to 14-30.

John
 
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