Any one experience overheating issues with the QC Charge Coolant delete option? Or any coolant delete options?

[DustBunny]

Hi all! I have my cat in the shop, waiting to have the QC coolant delete installed. I’ve been doing more reading outline and I’m a little worried. I live in a very hot environment and I’m a little concerned my rotor may overheat. Has anyone had any experience with this?

 

[alflash]

The likelihood of reliably checking the rotor temperature after this upgrade is practically zero. The only attempt to check the rotor temperature is described in
https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/ldu-rotor-temperature-monitor.2641/

IMHO. It was not in vain that Tesla engineers provided liquid cooling of the rotor. And I do not exclude the possibility that this motor modernization may cause a breakdown, since the system does not have information about the temperature of the rotor and of its overheating.

Question. Do the modification contractors provide a guarantee in case of motor failure due to rotor overheating?

 

[DustBunny]

Thank you- that all makes absolute sense. I was really worried about having the leak happen (120k on the odometer and honestly running well) and did some more reading and am now concerned- air temps out here are routinely over 100 F in the summer.

I have asked, I haven’t heard back yet regarding guarantees.

 

[asavage]

I'm surprised someone hasn't grenaded their rotor yet, but . . . so far, so good.

I've spot-checked my rotor temp reading (such as it is: it is obviously an indirect measurement) and on the highway in 80°F ambient I have not crested 235°F yet.

A different forum's member Boxster EV reported 182°C (360°F) during "spirited driving" his Porsche Boxster EV conversion. IDK what measurement method he has used; he posted "stock motor sensor".

As there have probably have been a few hundred dry-rotor conversions on LDUs by now, the lack of reports of failures is encouraging.

 

[DustBunny]

Oh nice! That is really heartening to hear. Hahah I don’t plan on doing any particularly ‘spirited driving’ for sure.

 

[asavage]

Going dry rotor is both cheap and easy . . . as long as your sensor checks dry.

Once it checks wet with Blue Drops of Death, then it becomes expensive, as you (usually? often?) have to remove the LDU, remove the rotor (if possible) and clean/dry out the stator cavity, so $ now or $$$$ if you wait. One of those things.

 

[hbrav]

Its been a couple of hundreds of miles including freeway and light towing. I put the ss cap delete on awhile back and so far its been no problems!! Seems to work fine and no longer worried about seal failing. We tow a Casita Deluxe 17' trailer probably 3100 lbs total has leveling hitch tows just fine but we can only get about 75miles before we need more juice!

 

[DustBunny]

Ah, nice! I got worried, my work commute is 40 mile round trip and fairly remote, not particularly fast or taxing mechanically but I don’t fancy getting stranded out in nowhere. That’s really good to hear that even towing hasn’t caused you an issue.

 

[DustBunny]

Going dry rotor is both cheap and easy . . . as long as your sensor checks dry.

Once it checks wet with Blue Drops of Death, then it becomes expensive, as you (usually? often?) have to remove the LDU, remove the rotor (if possible) and clean/dry out the stator cavity, so $ now or $$$$ if you wait. One of those things.

I chose $ now! Actually it’s like $$ now because it is going into a shop to get some other maintenance done too, but still.. I’m really trying to stay on top of the stuff that might be problematic, and glad to know that I am not shooting myself in the foot.