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Well, all of their alternative fuel cars have been Toyotas. They only made hybrid Lexus cars after hybrids became a commercial success. Also, they didn't really care how well they sold since they never intended to make more than the 2500 they needed for compliance.

If the hill is steep enough, the car will pick up speed, but it works fairly well for me going down a long stretch not far from my house. The downhill (45mph) is not terribly steep, and sometimes flattens out for a bit, and I never have to intervene to hold speed.

That's half of the difference right there. The higher drag coefficient, higher ground clearance, the larger, heavier tires, and the fact that Tesla didn't spend tons of engineering time trying to improve the RAV's range are more than enough to explain the rest.

Because the RAV has a normal and an extended charge mode, the EPA reports the range as an average between the two. I'm not sure the model S had to do that. However it's​ mostly because it's a much less efficient vehicle.

Have that outlet checked out ASAP. That big a voltage drop means something is wrong...possibly burn your house down wrong.

This was my second. The word over on the Tesla forum is that about a year ago, Tesla started reworking the drive units with a proper fix rather than with the same old part that was failing before. No one will really know until they find they DON'T need another replacement.

The "Tony test" just resets the meter allowing us to get a handle on the actual battery capacity, it doesn't really change your range! Once the system gets a handle on your efficiency, the range shown will go back to what it was. The actual distance you can drive is completely unaffected by any...

Of course, it doesn't really matter whether you plan to sell it. If they accept the claim, they pay you the diminished value. There's no requirement that you ever sell it.

I bought the extended warranty for 8yr/125K. I won't keep the car beyond that unless I've had 30-40K trouble free miles (at least on the motor) by then.

FINALLY! I got my second replacement done yesterday. It's been an ordeal. I took it in last August, waited and when I called in to check, they had dropped the order for my new motor on the floor someplace. I had to go through the process again, waiting 6 weeks this time for it to come in. You...

So did you go ahead and disconnect the meter? If so, I can practically guaranty they will blame it anyway.

The car seems to be in OK shape, but too expensive, even without the dings and stains. With the dings and stains, I'd want a big discount.

BTW, Unless there's some issue with the circuit, you should be able to go all the way to 24a on a TT-30.

The Tony test is the only way to go. All of the things you noted are within normal expectations if someone has been driving it on lots of short trips and/or with a lead foot.

To keep the fridge and a few lights going in an emergency, it should be acceptable.

That sounds much more like it. They really should have been clearer from the outset. Selling you a warranty and then NOT fixing the car is just silly.

If find it very suspicious that all seven popped out. More likely they weren't all there to begin with.

Toyota isn't stupid. If an expensive repair comes up near the end of the warranty mileage and they find you have bigger tires, they are likely to figure the amount the odometer is off and recalculate your mileage. Also, purposefully faking the odometer reading is against the law some places, and...

I'd either remove the cover, or use some duct tape to make sure it doesn't come off if you want to drive it until the dealer can see it.

My understanding is that the Toyota Used car warranty must be bought at the same time as the car from a Toyota dealer. If you buy the car from a non-Toyota dealer, you can't buy one.