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Sometimes you can fix the problem by replacing the fuses, sometimes by replacing the on-board charger. Check out the following threads: https://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2537 https://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2530

There are third parties which could likely repair it using used parts or even by reflashing a Tesla Model S charger. The dealer might also be able to complete the repair with used parts. Obviously, it's not ideal, but it's not really that bad since any parts you would get from Tesla at this...

I have my doubts whether a RAV4EV with a battery that healthy still exists. Maybe if it had a warranty battery replacement very late in the game, but otherwise we're talking about a minimum 9 yo battery. I'd probably talk to QCCharge for a line on a car they've refurbed.

I'm guessing they didn't. Just traded them in with no questions asked. In my experience, the sounds are not that loud, and an ICE driver (or dealer) likely wouldn't remark on them at all. Not to mention that if the dealer didn't take it for a diagnostic test ride, they couldn't possibly hear it...

Excellent! That means that if it's telling someone to charge to 94% like the example, it really is because that's faster than driving to a different charger at some intermediate location so they can charge to a lower SOC.

Yes, you can override all of the defaults, including the maximum charge level. That said, it knows that charging slows at higher SOC (although it may not know the exact amount that JDeMO does so), and took that into account before routing you that way.

Personally, I think that https://abetterrouteplanner.com/ does this much better and easier.

Yeah, I reached out to QC Charge and they indicated a 4 month backlog and a $5K price tag for one of those rebuilds...and I still wouldn't have a road trip car.

Still going, but not for too much longer. I no longer have confidence that the car won't need major work on the electric motor, so we're finally trading it in on a Model Y. My wife really likes the RAV and wants to keep it, but I'm not willing to rely on it, plus I'd really like to have a decent...

Considering how stale this thread is, I'd say you have your answer.

Awesome! How exactly were you able to narrow it down to that?

Are you talking about a 2012-2014 Rav4 EV? That's what this board is about. I'd be looking for either an unplugged module or antenna, or a broken wiring harness. Since they work when you hold them to the start button, it doesn't seem to be an unprogrammed or misconfigured remote.

Yeah, I'm not holding my breath on that one. JDemo is shaky enough as it is.

I'd love to be wrong. Do let us know if a 2012 mat fits.

Not surprising. The battery is under the rear floor and so my understanding is that it is completely different from the regular RAV. Last year I was able to still find the regular RAV4EV front floor mats at a local dealer. I wasn't shopping for the rear, unfortunately, and I wasn't looking for...

I'd just do a dd of the entire drive into a backup file, then try restoring it on a new drive. Don't sweat not being able to mount the filesystems.

Well, hack off my legs and call me Shorty. Didn't expect that! I'd be tempted to source a drive with the same geometry (if possible), and image it from your wife's unit and see if everything is suddenly OK.

I have to admit I don't have first-hand knowledge, but I do have experience in automotive infotainment development, and I find it unlikely in the extreme that there would be a spinning hard drive in the unit. A bad or loose component in the power supply could make a whining noise that changes in...

If you know anyone who is versed in electronics repair, it might be worth having them open up the unit and inspect for obvious blown components, damaged connectors, cold solder joints, broken wires internally, etc... No guarantees, of course, and you do run the risk of ending up with a unit that...

Well, my two thoughts are either there's a wiring problem causing the display to think the car isn't on when it is, or the entertainment system has a fault. I'd start by looking for chewed wiring or some such, just because it's easier to look for and to repair.