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Sure. Traveling this week. Will do on Saturday.

I have ordered some potentiometers to test this. Could you confirm if these are the two tests you want me to perform? I will disconnect d15 connector. On this replacement connector I have made to create artificial heater control using ne555 , I will connect a 10kohm resistor between PWR and...

I didn't understand this. Are you suggesting I check the resistance between pwr and rmi terminals? Oh, I think you you mean I use a load resistor on the signal generator output to see the impact on the signal?

Oops. I must have run it dry cumulatively for over 30 mins to do all the tests. @alflash Given that there was not a big drop in RMI peak voltage when I used the NE555 pwm generator, could we conclude that the heater is not causing the weak heater control signal?

There is no liquid in the system

I definitely hear some repetitive noise but I don't know if that's how a pump functioning normally would sound.

Red Blue Black Pump noise

Also, can I close the heater assembly? Do you foresee needing to do any more testing on the heater itself? I wanted to start driving the car.

I forgot to take a video if it. It was fluctuating between 1-4A. I have disconnected the 555 pwm generator. Would you like to see a photo/video of it? Without connecting d15 - no heater control signal Connecting d15 - weak heater control signal Where exactly is this? How exactly would I...

I repeated the test with 40Hz and heater got warm !! (To get to 40khz I had to carefully configure the potentiometers without turning it too far and use the lower part of second jumper setting) I see intermittent 2-3A draw using the clamp meter. The right part of the Aluminum block took...

@alflash Irrelevant question for this forum, but a quick one. What tools you use to create these videos that you post on Youtube :) Now that we have wrapped up the speed sensor testing, I have a few questions about what more could be done to diagnose the heater issue. 1. I think the only test I...

Funny thing happened. While connecting the probes, the pins touching ENCA and ENCB got shorted and I got check ev system light and wheels did not move. I guess this is expected?

Probe 1: ENCB Probe 2: ENCA Video of oscilloscope - https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoMSicNQxi7y5nhRkT3iP-2dlaKr Video of speed - https://1drv.ms/v/c/a645fc7be4ec742f/Ef09MzDYFiRNsZYAKSHdDgMBNvKdbNTEmekGD7fH_0lGKQ?e=zocds8 Steps in video: IGN on, no READY READY D, with brake pressed Brake partially...

Correct, but I did test by connecting probes to 2, 3 where 3 was always 0V. I then switched to 2 and 4 which showed interesting waveforms and that is the video I shared. I can record and share a video of probe on pin 3 as well.

60Hz

I meant Pin #3, ENCA, as you had annotated in the pic above had zero voltage in all states. However, I have not tested in reverse. Understood.

I will get the speed sensor video again slowly this time, with changes to oscilloscope settings. We can see how the 2 behave. Forgot to mention, Pin 3 always had zero voltage when I tested.

Stage 1: Car was OFF Stage 2: Press IGN on to READY directly, with foot on brake, transmission set to D Stage 3: Brake slightly released Stage 4: READY, D, Brake fully released but accelerator not pressed (tires were coasting). (Green ECO light was ON)

Got a good video of it. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoMSicNQxi7y5l-3pQCOwc1stk4l Channel 1 connected to pin 2 from top Channel 2 connected to pin 4 from top

You the continuity check between HV terminals on DC-DC and cabin terminals. I checked. If a fuse were to be blown we would expect the voltage at the cabin heater hv terminals to be zero correct? Yes, all 3 are fed using the replacement connector I made in the order gnd, rmi and pwr.