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Hi, Everyone. I promised a fill write up. I am not trying to avoid the forum. IN fact I am super happy I found you guys! I ended up braking my wrist and 2 ribs on June 1st. So I have not been typing as much. But I will see if I can get some time to talk to text and fill in the whole story...

I think it said Lo I thought I got a picture but I didn't have time as it went away quickly. My first guess would be a loose wire or something. It goes to turtle mode then back to full power a few seconds later. Any idea of which connector(s) I am guessing a BMS connector from the...

Ok I will have a look. I will fix up my connector today. When it give me the low voltage warning and turtle mode it was 1/2 charge and I had only been driving for about 1 minute each time. I was not driving hard I was light throttle and no more than 50 km/h in traffic.

I didn't have the laptop plugged in. I will finish making my RJ45 - CAN adapter. And keep it in the car with me to look at it again if it pops up. But it only gives the low battery warning for about 10 seconds then it goes away.

Ok So one error that has popped up 3 times while driving it is the Low Battery warning and this is while the battery is at 60% So last night I charged to 100% (extended range) As I want to make sure the BMS gets some time to balance it. But I guess I need to look at why this warning is...

I will try to explain more later but its is on the MAIN drive unit control board. We tried to use a Control board from the Model S P85+ and you tried to help me re-program that and it would not accept programming so I had to repair this one a second time. I will try to write everything up...

It was this connector

Yes. I was just not sure if maybe because the Sport Tesla unit might have different current sensors maybe it allows more power....

I just figured it seems faster than before both in sport and not in sport mode. But in sport mode at 40km/h it spins the tires on dry pavement :) Right now it has the Tesla P85+ (sport) inverter inside running the motor with the OEM control board.

Also is it normal to be able to smoke the tires in sport mode?

Yes the speed sensor it self was fine. What I had to do was repair the connector on the control board again this time with 1.75+ reading glasses and it helped me see good enough to find the 2 bad pins.

Just got the motor running. Man or man!!! I will write up all of the details to help others..

I think these 2 pins were the cause. I'll know soon enough.

I had to clean off the silicone I put on it to protect it ...

I bet it's a problem on this connector. It's the one I had problems with for the HVIL. I have some +1.75 glasses now and it's helping me see better

I will do that next. You are saying measure/scope the wires going to the speed sensor that gets wet when the coolant seal fails? I was thinking maybe the control board is looking at the rotating AC field and is looking at if the field is rotating and sending some info back saying the field is...

See I don't know if it's trying to rotate. How do you tell??

Yes I think something is up that during the self test it is not happy. I will post some pictures later. So its not that there is a speed sensor problem its that the system is not able to see the rotor move.

The HVIL in my case, was a bad connection from the connector on the control board. (I had repaired this.) And this was what Pins 7/8 were connecting to.

I have two speed sensors. Both the same fault. I can see what it looks like. But the motor never moves at all. Just instant fault.