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:shock: I can't believe that people act this way. You should be arrested for hit and run. Actually, this is WORSE than hit and run as it's intentional property damage.

New tires always give lower efficiency. They will improve some as they wear.

Sorry, we only deal with the RAV4 EV (electric vehicle) on this site.

I sure wouldn't want to add the extra daily cycling to my car's battery. If a dedicated battery degrades, I just keep using it until I decide it's cost effective to replace it. If my car's battery degrades too much, my car becomes useless. Also, you've created a false equivalency on your pricing...

You can check the voltage of the 12v system when the car is on. It should be 14v when charging. There's a thread around here that shows the fuse that blows in the DC-DC converter and how to get a replacement. An EV certified mechanic should be able to use those instructions to get it working if...

It may be the short trips that are getting you. It's hard to get efficiency up that way. I regularly see a bump when I take the car on a longer trip that takes me down close to empty. On the plus side, even if the old guess-o-meter is only showing 90 when I start the trip, I have no problem...

The GOM adjusts according to how you drive. It may be that had you charged it on a standard charge it would have been lower than the 93 the last owner experienced. My GOM after a standard charge is around 87, but jumps to 95 plus after a road trip. If you really want to get a handle on...

It may be worse than that. The infotainment system in the RAV4 EV is different from the gassers. The instructions you're looking at may not apply at all.

I would try disabling one timer, then the other and see if the behavior changes. There isn't a real reason to have both enabled.

Yes, they've been replacing a lot of motors on Tesla vehicles, too. Tesla does the rebuilding. A year plus ago, Tesla finally changed the rework process to avoid the problem that has been plauging our vehicles. In my understanding, induced currents were flowing through the bearings causing them...

The technology used is RFID. There is an antenna inside each of the doors that supports the fob and in the cabin. The system can tell where you are, so that having the fob by the driver door doesn't allow someone to unlock the passenger door with a touch. One feature of using RFID is that it...

It's called the guess-o-meter for a reason. In this case, the dealer probably disconnected the battery for a time and reset it's little electronic brain. It will slowly go back to the behavior you're used to.

They will happily charge you for damage, then scrap the car. The two actions are entirely separate, I'm afraid. Use the guide to figure out if you're likely to get charged. https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub/static/lease_end/assets/TFS%20LeaseEnd%20BookletNational2_2015_FA.PDF

A business taking the credit can spread it out, but not an individual.

Does the warranty book actually say that? Sounds ripe for a small claims suit for the cost of removal and reinstallation.

No issue at all.

The energy used by the charging process has a significant fixed component, mostly coming from the cooling systems. The slower the charge rate the bigger the fixed part is as a percentage of energy used.

I would expect it to be covered under the drive train warranty. After all, you can't drive an electric vehicle with a broken charging system (at least not very far). I think the whole flat tire thing was just a coincidence.

There's dead and there's dead. Leaving the light on probably ran the battery down to some too low to function voltage like 5-8v, then you charged it back up. The electronics were never actually completely powered off until you disconnected the cable.

I'd be happy to oblige if I knew where to find it.