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Ok Tried a different inverter power stage. Same main control board. Its the same issue.

Well thanks for all your help. Technical I only touched 1 system. But keeping an eye on many. Trust me. I have put way more into this than I should have. And all while not being allowed in my shop every second week.

Why does it stop working? The DC-DC it still keeping the system at 14+ VDC

Ok. So did another quick test. I push the brake and then push the ignition button and it goes ready. I then measure the DC + and DC - at the entrance to the motor and it was 364vdc. Then I got in and put it in drive and tried the throttle and it faulted and then I measured the + - at the...

Hmm when testing further and playing with the AC I found the AC compressor stops working when the fault happens but I can hear both contactors open after I turn the ignition off.... So after dinner I'll pull the plug off the drive unit and measure the DC voltage before and after I push the go...

I had my son watch the bake lights and they do turn off after I let go of the peddle. So I guess I have a faulty drive inverter. I also did try unhooking the speed sensor on the side of the motor and it says more speed sensor faults Like DI W009 and DI W074. I guess the drive inverter needs...

Hmm so as soon as I turn the car on to Ready. It gives me the speed sensor fault. I have not pushed any peddles. I just tried another sensor. It didn't help. I might have pulled on the wires pretty hard a couple times when I forgot to unhook the sensor while lowering the motor.

I did the rotor coolant delete. Tesla should have never run the coolant into the rotor like that.

my rotor is not tuning so far

And it says check power steering. But the power steering works before I try to push the go peddle.

Does it need coolant? It goes into drive but then shifts to neutral. Contactors are still closed and the DC/DC is still running! I did put the CV shafts in and did up a few bolts. But it has no coolant does it need that to spin? Also front wheels are off the ground. Contactors don't open...

Hmm so don't bolt the motor in? It has no coolant and the tie rods are not hooked to the spindles. Also this was during testing with 25amps of charger on a full 12v battery

It shifts into drive but then gives a check power steering warning and goes back to neutral

Progress. Now something is up with the power steering but the front end is apart still Maybe it needs the CV shafts in place?

Damn after repairing it so pin 7-8 shows 60 ohms I still have the HVIL problem

Will go through that after lunch. . The speed sensor fault? I did have the speed sensor plugged in. Maybe it's faulty? It only gives me that fault when I try to push the brake pedal and try to get it to go ready

Thank you so much. 7-8 measure open! I will dig into this.

Took the cover off 1 last time to fix the metal clip from the plug that pokes out of the inverter housing to gnd. Which got it down to this. Still have no contactors trying to close... Super frustrating.

A quick test from today. I am going to pull it out and see if I have a connector off.

Guys, I need to do a long write up and share all I have learned. I owe a HUGE thanks to alflash. He has went above and beyond to try to help me out. The short version is I have damaged my OEM boards from the inverter. I tried repairing it and tried to run the Rav 4 and it didn't work. So...