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I did the job myself. My friend Doug lent me his Raf 4 for as long as I need. He provided me with the bearing kid from QC to do the repair.

Ok hold on. You seem to be missing something. What causes the sound? 1 could be bad bearings. 2 could be the currents traveling though the bearings. IN my case with all new bearings OTHER THAN the 2 diff bearings I had the noise instantly. But the noise is not there when coasting...

The noise and the arcing in the bearings.

Im thinking about making something like this. I have lots of starters I can rob brushes from at work.

Yeah it might have been 7. the Reason I messed up the control board was I didn't pop the housing cover back on the inverter side while fighting the 1 bearing in the intermediate shaft in the gear case. SO its likely 7. I have had quite the year so my memory is down a bit.

It was a kit from Quickcharge. But both rotor bearings were replaced as well as the next 4 in the gear case the only 2 that were not replaced were the 2 on the diff which do spin at a MUCH slower speed.

The rotor spline end is not in good shape. The shaft and coupler splines are quite worn and there was a lot of dust I cleaned out of there.

I replaced all the bearings other then the 2 diff bearings and they seemed fine. This made noise from day 1.

Ok So Maybe I can come up with a solution. Being as the coolant tube is welded up I can replace the coolant seal with a grounding brush or device. The shaft Diameter is 30mm and the cover it presses into is 55mm if anyone can find something that will work. Non the less I am working on it. The...

Does anyone know where I can buy this graphite brush?

Hmm I have fuses coming. But I parked in front of work today for 10min to save time and it was at an EV charger so I plugged in... And I have not changed the fuses yet but it started charging with L2 (30a 208Vac).... I wonder if a contactor welded? And now its freed up? What else would...

There is likely some truth to this. I have an EVSE that lets me crank it past 40 amps. I put it to 41 to get the full 39.9amps... And I only did this in the last 3 weeks when it was critical. I charged at that current about 3 times... So I can see how that might have added some heat and...

Hmm those are cheep. Thank you.

Cable is good. Its the one you and I used before and I used a DMM to double check its good. I I can also triple check. But the TPD 1.1.42 said the licence was good until May 29 so should I just remove it?

Mine did this today as well. One of the pins to the GND is open and the other measures 0 ohms I got lucky and found the 120Vac charger worked as it must be on the good pin lol Not sure if I should worry about the 0ohm reading or if it will go back up with the blown fuse replaced.

Hi Everyone I tried to connect to the Tesla OBD port today as my onboard charger quit. I diagnosed it as a fuse. But wanted to connect and check the codes. But it will not show me the Realtek PCIe port on my PC when trying to set the network configuration. I checked my cable. I tried with...

Any other ideas here? Looks like these are a ways away and VERY pricey. Looking for cost effective fuses that I can get from Digikey or Mouser or Amazon etc

Hi Guys I am back. So Far the Rav 4 EV is working good. But the pesky low Battery voltage warning comes on randomly. But I figured out its only when stopped and holding the brakes long enough. It might also be at a certain brake position But this is weird its like the brake is maybe sending...

Hi, Everyone. I promised a fill write up. I am not trying to avoid the forum. IN fact I am super happy I found you guys! I ended up braking my wrist and 2 ribs on June 1st. So I have not been typing as much. But I will see if I can get some time to talk to text and fill in the whole story...

I think it said Lo I thought I got a picture but I didn't have time as it went away quickly. My first guess would be a loose wire or something. It goes to turtle mode then back to full power a few seconds later. Any idea of which connector(s) I am guessing a BMS connector from the...