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Hello Fromport, I am going to use bus bars made of bare copper wire. Probably 3 - 14 gauge wires twisted together. I am going to then fuse each cell independently just like Tesla does. Info on the method can easily be find on youtube and I think I posted a video in my original post. I am trying...

Want to sell it? PM me

Instead of updating the first post I decided to post an update here. This has been an amazing project so far and I am learning a lot. I dont have a lot of money into it so far but I do have a fair bit of time invested. I am nervous to take the big step of purchasing the 18650 cells. As you will...

Just got them installed. I am now ready for a battery. I left one of the leads long by mistake. Eventually it will be covered by the false floor. So far thats my only boo boo. Which is good because I am still alive. :)

I have been watching for one myself. I think Tony Williams has one for sale. No idea on price. What are you looking to do with it? At the moment there is no way to integrate with the OEM BMS system. I am hoping someone develops something soon.

So you think that the 12 volt power going to the board of the shunt is going to somehow cause issues with the 12v system in the car? Ive seen other people using this monitor and havent heard that before. I do have fuses. I have one under the hood where I get power from the Jdemo and a second...

And isolator for the 12 V side? I don’t get it

Conctactor and master switch boxes are almost done. Also, I found a lead on LG MJ1 3500 mah cells for $3.80 each today. Best deal I have found so far.

Yes the plan is to cut the think sheetmetal floor out. Its pretty wide open all around it under the car. I might even lower the pan an inch. I will leave the details up to my welder. The whole area is a crumple zone but I want to make it as strong as we can.

I decided to redesign my whole pack. The lower cargo area isn't quite large enough for the pack I want to put in so I've decided to cut the floor of the cargo area out and weld in a new box. Its going to be a bit of work but it will give me more room for my battery pack. The battery box is going...

Yes, it should. My pack is going to run in parallel with the main pack so charging with j1772 will definitely charge both packs. I am not positive if Tony has any kwh limitations in his Jdemo programming but it should charge with jdemo too. If he does have some kind of limits in place I am...

We had an unseasonably warm day here in NY so I took the opportunity to run the power wires. I picked up XLE EXRAD 2 gauge shielded wire rated at 255 amps. That should be enough because neither pack will see full amperage. The packs will be in parallel. I am connecting them to my...

I found a few rv tow behind bars that fit the Rav. Not cheap though. http://www.campingworld.com/roadmaster-sterling-all-terrain-tow-bar

10% over 22k miles isnt wonderful but it could be worse if it were left fully charged unused. The Rav only has battery temperature management if it is on or charging. I would've preferred that it was higher but I honestly expected it to be a little worse.

I might be interested. Mileage is low for a 2012. How has the battery been maintained? If it was left, parked, fully charged for an extended period of time the battery could be degraded quicker. Have you done the Tony Test? If not, can you and let me know?

Thank you for confirming. Ill install these fans so they pull air out. I'd have to google what a snap disk thermostat is but in my previous post I mentioned that I have a temperature switch on its way. So I do plan on using a thermostat and switch.

The original plan for the box included baffles but I had to remove them in order to fit the 9th module. There wasn’t enough space. I do have a temperature sensor/switch on its way. A link is in the first post under purchased items. I also plan to get an infrared temperature sensor at some point...

The seller only has one for sale. So I found the part number and searched for that. FBA-12G12H1BX Found a few more that were significantly cheaper! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=FBA-12G12H1BX&_sop=15 Update: I purchased 2 of these fans. Thanks...

Ok. They would probably be cheaper and use less energy. How are you so sure? Ive heard that it is better to have them suck air out than push it in. You think that is true? I wanted to have them blow in so I could put a heater in front of them at some point. Update: I just looked at the specs...

Thanks for the suggestion. I just thought bigger was better. But that was a bit too big and a bit louder than my wife would tolerate. I have reached out to the seller to return it. I found this one and thought it would be good. But if you think those little cooling fans are good enough you might...