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The previous version of TPD (1.1.42) had a button specifically to clear fault BMS_w023: 'HV battery detected possible damage to contactors'. The newest version (1.1.46) of TPD appears to have dropped that particular functionality. I would suggest disconnecting the 12V battery for a few minutes...

I'm not familiar with this setup, but I doubt it includes support for the extended charge option. However, after 10+ years your battery pack probably has little to no extended capacity remaining, so you're likely not giving up much.

I used two Gigavac GV200PA-1 contactors for my replacements 5 years ago, no issues since then. Plenty of stock available: https://octopart.com/search?q=gv200pa-1&currency=USD&specs=0 The best price may be at EV West: https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=407 If you use a...

With new paint, newer tires, and lower mileage, your asking price seems on the low side; I would start at $14k and come down if needed, unless you're just in a hurry for a quick sale. You probably won't find a buyer on this forum, as we all likely already own one.

TPD will provide a better diagnosis than any of us speculating. While waiting for the TPD interface cable to arrive, remove and inspect the motor speed sensor at the end of the motor on the passenger side: a damp sensor is indicative of a leaking rotor seal, which may mean damaged inverter...

For new (and old) TPD users: unlike typical automotive ECUs, the Tesla RAV4 gateway only seems to know about what's happening "right now" - if you cycle ignition power, my experience has been that any record of faults (unless still currently active) will go away. If you are having an...

If you can replace brakes, you can replace one of these coolant pumps, should be a ~10 minute job.

Cycling the ignition on/off four or five times usually clears any intermittent faults in the Tesla system. I would try that, and see if the warning goes away. A weak 12V battery can also cause odd errors to appear; if yours is more than a few years old, consider having it tested at a local...

Welcome to NC! I'm over in Salisbury, if you ever do run into any issues.

A contactor near the end of its life could fit most of these symptoms, and is a common failure mode. However an equally common problem is coolant ingress into the motor electronics due to a leaking rotor shaft seal, which can cause intermittent and wildly varying issues. QC Charge made a video...

Any obvious electrical failures to be seen? Wondering if it might something as simple as a diode or FET that could be replaced...

Normally when you start your RAV, you should hear 'thunk-thunk' of the two contactors closing. If there is a problem with them, you will either hear a single 'thunk' or simply nothing at all, the READY indicator on the instrument cluster will flash rather than being on steady, and you will not...

If your 12V battery is more than a few years old, it might be worth having it checked and/or replaced. A lot of folks have reported various issues that seem to be tied to a poorly performing 12V battery. I recommend something like this to keep an eye on things: Amazon.com Any reading less...

Note that the primary coverage for this campaign expired Dec 11, 2022, and the secondary coverage (ie last chance to get paint fixed) expires 10 years from the date of when the vehicle was first placed into service.

I own several JuiceBox units, and generally have had good reliability with them. However I have replaced a stuck relay in one of the older (metal) ones, and found a damaged PCB-mounted relay in one of the newer (plastic) models from poorly tightened connections. A sticking relay is unlikely to...

Fred- It's your money, but do you really want to dump $5k+ into a car, only to get rid of it in 6 months? You definitely won't recover the cost of the motor repairs; I would guess a fresh motor is worth no more than $2k extra to a buyer. Do you specifically need a RAV4 EV for 6 more months...

I actually picked up a Model S gen 1 DC-DC a few months ago to answer this exact question: is it a direct swap for the RAV4, or does the firmware need to be updated. With work and holiday travel, I haven't had a chance to perform this swap/test yet. I'm traveling yet again starting Sunday, so...

It sounds like the dealership has likely followed instructions and properly diagnosed a problem with the output of the DC-DC converter. I don't think anyone has ever had this problem before, but that doesn't mean it isn't a correct diagnosis. The next step should be to see if the car behaves...

When you try to start the car, do you hear the 'clunk-clunk' of the contactors as they close? Does the instrument cluster show 'READY' as continuously on, flashing, or not at all? Were there any symptoms/problems the last time the vehicle was driven? How old is your 12V battery? Many issues...

What are the symptoms or fault codes that imply the need for a new battery? Rarely do these Tesla cells fail; the typical failure mode is a bad contactor, and while that repair does require removing the pack for service, it does not require replacement of the battery modules.