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Miimura is correct Dsinned. Hit Print Screen and cropped it using MS Paint, then uploaded to PhotoBucket. Not elegant, but gets the job done.

The Enerati monitoring system only measures current and assumes 230V, hence the lower over all power. I found out later how to add a correction-factor to get it to show 7.4kW, but didn't have access to those screen shots for this thread. Here is an extended charge with the correction factor...

For what its worth, I just charged my car up using extended charge. RavCharge estimated it would take an additional 1:18 to complete after it reached 100%, when it actually took 1:03 (hr:min).

Here is a log of a standard charge. Notice it has no taper. The ~750W towards the right is pre-cooling the cabin. Here is a log of an extended charge, with the taper shown lasting about 15 min. Here is one of the extended charge, with taper, with the equalization charge to which Dsinned...

That is fine. It really doesn't matter as you get full credit for anything over 16kWh. "For vehicles acquired after December 31, 2009, the credit is equal to $2,500 plus, for a vehicle which draws propulsion energy from a battery with at least 5 kilowatt hours of capacity, $417, plus an...

It has a 50kWh pack.

Thanks fooljoe for the time till charged feature (including standard or extended charge settings)! This will come in handy when charging in the wild, as last week I used a public blink charger which I calculated to be 208V/25A or ~14 miles per hour of charge. I took Tony's meter suggestion and...

I will check to see if I have a thermal chamber available to do it. "100%" would be charging up to 4.15V. How far down do you want me to discharge? 2.9v A simple ice chest with a 100 watt light bulb might work for the thermal chamber.

I'm running 4 different scenarios. The number of charging cycles after 50k miles is roughly: Standard charge discharging 60 miles worth (60% DOD) = 800 charging cycles Standard charge discharging 95 miles worth (85% DOD, down to first Low Battery Warning symbol) = 530 charging cycles Extended...

My results show about ~5% loss after 25k miles. Since your's are actual miles driven, I'm happy with a +/-1% difference!

My testing just completed 50k simulated miles. The cells have retained ~92% of original capacity, on average.

What was the temperature at the time (and overnight)? Were you using B or D? Like Doug401 says, B will allow greater regen levels to occur and lower temperatures will increase the pack's resistance such that at high regen levels the overall voltage shoots up quickly and may reach a preset...

My wife went 88 mph in normal mode (not testing out top speed, just happened to be that speed while passing someone on the tollway in Austin). I kept waiting for the 85 mph limiter to kick in, but it didn't. The speed limit on the toll way is 85 mph.

Yes, my tests have just passed the 45k mile mark. After 100k miles I'll share the report and graphs with everyone. For summary though, I see the capacity around ~93%, with the amount lost decreasing with miles (i.e. 3% loss first 10k miles, then 2% next 10k, then 1% next 10k, then <1% next 10k...

Where does the XX kWh information come from? Is that is what is in the pack or what is left that is usable. I assume the latter but wanted to know what generated the value. Thanks.

Yes, my original intent was to go to 100k miles, but I will keep them cycling as long as I have access to the battery channels.

For standard charge, I charge at C/5 to 4V with no taper on current, simply shut off. For extended charge, I charge to 4.15V and then taper to 0.2A. As for lower end, I stop when it is down to 15% SOC (equivalent to roughly 7kWh still left in the pack). After 35k simulated miles, I am down to...

Dsinned, My cell testing is up to 35k simulated miles and I can only see ~1% difference in capacity from standard charge vs extended charge. That surprises me but that's what the data show. I say do whatever is easier for you (go with extended charge and charge less often?).

Unfortunately, there are no such things as gentleman agreements when it comes to businesses. You can call my dealer, but they can/will only do what Toyota Corporate tells/reimburses them to do. Anything extra is just if it doesn't inconvenience anyone or cost them money. You should talk to...

One can also see that "Cause of Forced Ready Off" was "EP Sys Run NG", whatever that means.