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Considering the cost of the other "minor" components I plan to part out my vehicle if the battery quits out of warranty. Retail price of the battery installed you could probably buy a LEAF and a BOLT brand new.

Did you ask them to locate one for the price you want? Let them work for the business if they want to sell so bad.

Wow. 300 tests for $600 I could pay for a few tests at $2 but $600 to start is a bit steep.

Please give a 90 day report. My DU replacement was good but still a bit of a disappointment.

My original developed the whine at low speed. Over time it was louder and also became more at higher speed. Replacement is near silent at low speed but high speed (~50mph) started on day one slightly but very noticeable in just a few thousand miles. I expect to go in for a second swap before...

Yes maybe. By the emails it seems to have charged about 20 minutes and was interrupted at 2:09 am. Could it be a brief power outage? Not sure RAV is smart enough to restart. Nothing in the house seemed reset.

Mine failed to charge this morning for the first time that I can remember. Timer is set to charge by 8 am. 30 amp Schneider was displaying the red error light. First I have seen this. Car said error with EVSE. Unplugged the EVSE and it reset. Car charged using Immediate Charging. Will see if...

All you need to do is an extended range charge, turn off the climate control and drive. You already know it will go 110+ miles regardless of the guess-0-meter. Battery stores electric power, not miles.

How cold is it there? How many miles on the odometer? Are you using the heater? Test only resets the meter. Same charge is in the battery. Meter adjusts over time for temperature, general conditions, and driving habits.

Have them checked at 100,000 miles.

Low cost clamp-on ammeter would verify fuse issue or overload.

Valuation is easy. Considering the small and shrinking number of RAV4-EVs the price should be returned with positive net cash flow fairly soon like 2 to 5 years max. I only see declining membership unless Toyota starts building electric RAVs again. Even then readership would be split between...

12.4 to 14.6 verified last night. will further test the 6kW Denso this weekend. looks like easy R&R but I will leave this to the pros. My worry would be getting the air out of the heater so it does not burn itself up before the pump fills it up.

OK so my heater seems to have quit tonight. I assume it is best to get it into the dealer before the converter goes with it? Any quick test besides setting temp to HI and cc to Auto?

My drive unit replaced last month if much better but not silent. Nothing like the quality of the LEAF gearbox. Makes me leery of the Model 3. Very old technology Tesla just did not get right.

12.4 should start the car. Disconnect overnight and put on a charger. Try in the AM or have it towed.

Do these parts (heater & DC/DC) need a reprogram at the dealer? Or can they be purchased and self replaced?

How many heaters have been replaced twice? Seems like an assembly defect to me as replacements seem to hold up fine.

Check that the heater works. Not part of the 60/60 factory drive train warranty.

I think I would ask for the address and show up with a rented car trailer behind my truck ;) Either way I would get the battery after a bit of grumbling.