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I have verified that this one is for the SRS: However, SRS may also have a role in opening contactors. IDK. I noted above that the R&R section shows TWO connectors to this safety switch, so E128 & E129 may both connect here. The .html']nav receiver has to come out to access it. For...

IDK, but there are TWO "pyrotechnic safety switches": Keep looking, because IDK whether the one you've found (from a non-EV manual?) is the one you think it is. [later] I think these are two connectors perhaps on the same switch? E128 & E129 are connector designations. Looking further, I'm...

You have factory manuals? Please share. I spent a long time and money downloading via subscription: https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/service-manual.1978/#post-30089 BMS_f062 has good info: And lots of other stuff. Of note: it mentions both the 12v battery (of course) and the Service Grip...

I haven't even looked in that area, but it's the blue connector below. Whether that's accessbile, IDK. (credit to @jimbo69ny : www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwRhpG-W8x4 )

I spent a lot of time making a "Tesla systems only" wiring diagram for the RAV4 EV, and I can confirm what Matt posted above. Beware: it's a large PNG -- it's the entire system -- and your browser may not render it. FF seems to deal OK, if your OS has enough RAM available.

That fellow had an HVIL error, and the BMS will NOT power the contactors if the HVIL loop's resistance doesn't match the preset. In that case, I'd expect a related Alert set in TPD.

I had my HV disconnnect out, and had to connect 12v to test some TPD cables, and while I got some errors, none were that 062. Of course, the HVIL loop was broken/open with the disconnect out, so that's a different scenario.

The RAV4 EV, the Mercedes Electric Drive/B250e, and the electric Smart cars, they all have a desiccant pack in the battery. The RAV4 EVs have some kind of little air pump on top of the battery cover, it's under the driver seat area, and it's quite noisy. It's one of the loudest things you hear...

I'm on the road, and haven't watched your video. Looking at the screenshots, you have 1.3Mohm in one shot, and the BMS error. I believe the threshold is 1.8M, so that doesn't surprise me. You have 3.3Mohm in the other screenshot, and no BMS error . . . and the charger is trying to update? That...

Three tablespoons of coolant wont hardly show on the reservoir level, but can wipe out half the grease in the outer rotor bearing on its way to the stator cavity (and further). It's a lot cheaper to not have coolant on the inverter side. Once it wicks up the wiring harness on the inverter...

Sure, could be. That's the Powertrain pump, at the RF. I usually use a vacuum purge tool that puts the cooling system in a mild vacuum. That pulls the majority of air out. I have this one:

IR sensors work via . . . IR radiation ;) An ideal black body emits the most IR per unit of temperature. Shiny surfaces emit the least. Emissivity is measured on a scale of [0..1], with 1 being "ideal" (I am simplifying, and I also wasn't a physics major). Copper of average polish has an...

I potted the leads with a different epoxy, using a copper reducer 1/2" x 3/8": I first used RTV very sparingly at the outside of the base: Then, the next day, I poured epoxy from the top to pot the leads: After that set up, I carefully ground off flats on the reducer, to allow an...

How to mount an IR sensor such that it can see the rotor, and be also be serviced? I chose a location, and a mounting technique that I'm not 100% happy with, but will serve as a first-pass attempt. Prepping the rotor cap housing, I removed part of an internal rib, and drilled/tapped for 3/8"...

After modifying my LDU to no longer circulate liquid coolant through the rotor, I would like to know just how hot this rotor is getting. I figure that it now can't dissipate much heat anywhere except to the stator, and to the rotor bearings, and I'm a bit worried about the latter; I think the...

Well, this is just straightforward fabrication. For the rotor cap puller adapter, reverse-engineering my paper doll template into dimensions that are accurate enough to share with confidence would take a couple of hours, whereas making your own paper doll and using a transfer punch (or whatever...

There isn't just one or two weak areas with the RAV4 EV. On the LDU, once the original steel ball bearings on the rotor are replaced, and you get rid of the rotor liquid cooling, these things are stout units. The original axle seals always leak, but my replacements at 70k are dry (I replaced...

The battery and powertrain loops share the radiator as a common, I think, so introducing air into the powertrain loop could also affect the battery loop. I have theories, but not worth exploring. I did the "Toyota way" this time; next time, I'll use my vacuum purge setup, as I have for all my...

The .003" oversize plug leaked badly at 20 PSI. I wanted to try dry fit first, because testing. I'm certain it would be fine if I had used any kind of sealant, but I also didn't like the interference fit at .003" oversize, so I had a second plug made, .005" oversize, and that one, fitted with...

Leading with this: as of this writing, no, I don't know how to properly fix the problem associated with this Alert. You Tesla owners who find this by Googling, the below may not even apply to your Model S. I'm putting this tale out in public to provide data for others do find, but I'm not...