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 Post subject: Re: Upgrading my interior lights to LEDs + Rear Lights [UPDA
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2018 7:42 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:26 pm
Posts: 287
I changed my cabin air filter a while back but I think I need to change it again. I recall looking for it on amazon and it was activated charcoal type. Though there are a bunch more at ebay for very very cheap in price.Not sure on quality from the ones in ebay, but I recall there were some options there. I was too lazy to buy the one from ebay....

oem charcoal ... carfor-20&



nice find on the filterws asavage should be helpful for a lot of people looking!

 Post subject: Re: Upgrading my interior lights to LEDs + Rear Lights [UPDA
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:35 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 4:55 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Duvall, Wash.
KurtManz wrote:
The original filter had an arrow pointing up (with the word up printed), but the dirt was on the top side... which implies air flow goes down...
the Kooteks filter has the arrow pointing on the direction of the air flow.. thus goes down...

The dirt & ash was on the top of the old filter, yes: airflow downward.

At work -- an industrial setting -- the arrow on a filter indicates flow direction (whether liquid or gaseous filters). However, from what I've gleaned in reading online, if the word "UP" is combined with an arrow, that indicates that the demarcated side is to be on top. And that's the way I reinstalled the Kootek filter.

TBH, I don't know that it makes a lot of difference, and I suspect that in this application the "UP" and arrow are there primarily as an attempt to prevent people from asking, "which way is it supposed to be installed?". That it doesn't work out that way just illustrates the folly of Man.

I have electronic units at work whose input can be AC or DC, but whose installation instructions indicate, "if using DC, use this terminal for negative and that for positive," as if the bridge rectifier downstream cares which terminal is used for neg or pos. IOW, it's either bad technical writing or an attempt to forestall tech support calls by providing accurate but meaningless information.

I just watched cashcow's linked YouTube vid, and I agree with the info presented with the exception of his calling the damper hydraulic when a more-accurate term would be pneumatic. And disconnecting its eyelet from the split-barb post that is molded into the right side of the glovebox does not require squeezing/pinching the split barb, because the barb will self-compress all by itself, just pulling on the eyelet.

Al Savage
2014 Rav4 EV, Shoreline Blue Pearl, #2609, first use 04Jun2014, 49k miles (Aug2017), OpenEVSE 40A. First DU replacement May2018 59k.
2018 Model 3 LR AWD, blue. 9.6kw solar
1999 E300 on B100 (sold Sep2018)

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